Caprice.

Caprice

Caprice pours Château d'Yquem, the Sauternes, by the glass from five-litre bottles.

Why go

The MICHELIN inspectors call Caprice, the French dining room on the sixth floor of the Four Seasons in Central, one of Hong Kong's most glamorous and elegant restaurants.4 Ingrid Paredes of Asia's 50 Best describes what earns that: a glass-floored catwalk, crystal chandeliers and the harbour filling the windows.2 Matthias Ruhl, who reviews starred restaurants on his blog Travels for Stars, ate there in February 2025 and found the view reaches every table, though most guests sit with their backs to the open kitchen.1

Guillaume Galliot has run the kitchen since 2017. He cooked under the Pourcel brothers at Le Jardin des Sens in Montpellier, then at Raffles in Singapore and Beijing, and came to Caprice from The Tasting Room in Macau.23 Caprice had lost its third MICHELIN star after 2011 and won it back in 2019, two years after he arrived, which Ruhl calls a highly unusual feat.1

Galliot told Kate Springer of Forbes Travel Guide in 2017: Serving caviar doesn't make a dish prestigious or sophisticated.6 His signature dish sets Alaskan king crab on a shellfish jelly under a dollop of caviar.2 Ruhl ate it in February 2025 and found the caviar so salty that essentially it worked as a condiment, leaving the lovely, fresh king crab the star of the dish.1

Ruhl's verdict on the whole meal was Solid French cuisine, with arguably fewer nods to Asian cuisine than one might encounter at a modern three-star in France.1 Danny Yip, who owns The Chairman, told the MICHELIN Guide in 2021: For special occasions, I often celebrate at Caprice, for the grandeur of its interior and the exquisite food.9

Order this / avoid

• On the menu: the king crab with shellfish jelly and caviar, the first course of Ruhl's February 2025 dinner, which he summed up as Very nice.1
• On the menu: the duck pie, a pastry of foie gras, duck and pistachio under a duck-consommé jelly, with a pear marmalade. Ruhl in 2025: By itself, the tarte was a bit dry, but that was much improved by the marmalade.1
• On the menu: the butter-roasted langoustine in a coconut and lemongrass sauce. Ruhl in 2025: The langoustine was cooked wonderfully, while the mushroom tarte beside it was a bit of a letdown.1
• On the menu: the blue lobster with beets, cocoa nibs and a ruby sauce of lobster bisque, raspberries and chocolate. The waiter told Ruhl the dish was conceived to go with a Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. Ruhl in 2025: I wasn't blown away, but it definitely worked way better than one might have feared.1
• On the menu: the cheese cart. Ruhl in 2025 found a decent variety of pretty good cheeses (only the Époisses tasted a bit off).1
• Avoid: the HK$500 supplement that swaps the duck main course for Japanese A4 Saga beef. Ruhl paid it in 2025: The beef was decent, but not very marbled.1
• Drink: the dearer wine pairing, for its 2010 Château d'Yquem. Ruhl in 2025 called the Yquem definitely a standout, then asked whether it was worth the HK$800 difference by itself: Maybe not.1

What locals & experts say

• MICHELIN Guide (2025 page, three stars): The harmonious, high-calibre French cuisine features premium ingredients, demonstrates superb techniques and shows a mastery of flavours.4
• Matthias Ruhl, Travels for Stars (February 2025, 17/20): While there were a couple of excellent dishes, the majority was very good, but not mind-blowing.1
• Julien Royer, the chef of Odette in Singapore (2022): Guillaume is a good friend of mine and Caprice is the go-to place for a very special occasion.10
• SCMP 100 Top Tables (2026): Galliot's contemporary French style marries classic technique with subtle global accents.5
• Andy Hayler, the London critic (February 2009, under Vincent Thierry, two chefs before Galliot): on the cheese from Bernard Antony, delivered weekly: A true 20/20 cheese board.8
• Asia's 50 Best Restaurants: No. 35 in 2026.3

Good to know

• Price: in February 2025 the dinner menus ran from HK$3,128 for six courses of house classics to HK$5,888 for seven courses built on black truffle. The wine pairings cost HK$1,680 or HK$2,480.1 SCMP's 2026 guide puts a meal at HK$3,000 a head and corkage at HK$750.5
• The menus: set menus only, four or five courses at lunch and seven at dinner.4
• Timing: shut Monday, lunch and dinner Tuesday to Sunday.43
• Booking: book by phone on +852 3196 8888.2
• Dress: Paredes calls a meal here well worth dressing up for.2
• Where: 6/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance Street, Central.4

Verdict

should-visit — Book Caprice for a big occasion and the harbour through the glass. Go for Guillaume Galliot's king crab, the dish the house is known for. Matthias Ruhl ate there in February 2025 and found most of the menu very good but short of mind-blowing. Menus started at HK$3,128 that month, before wine.