Montréal.
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4 places
Rooms you can walk into, ranked the way I would send you.
Key: what the badges mean
★ Michelin star · Bib Bib Gourmand · Green ★ Michelin Green Star · Michelin in the Michelin guide, no distinction · J Jeff's own note · Jeff ★★★★☆ 2019 his own rating out of five, and the year he gave it · new the venue itself opened recently · just added recently added to Jeff's list, whatever its age · 2◆ independent chef/industry recommendations · ! hygiene caution in force · ? no current public hygiene record, not a caution · keep walking Jeff has been and would walk past it · the line under a name says when to go: Destination (plan around it) / Solid (the dependable send) / Listed (on the radar). Under it, where the entry states one: how the room takes bookings, and the date I last checked the entry.
Go here first.
Where I'd actually send you first: the rooms I'd put a visitor in on night one, in town rather than an hour down the highway, spread so six cards are six different answers. Producers, markets and the rest of the city are below.
Au Pied de Cochonjust added?
Destination · Québécois brasserie · Le Plateau-Mont-Royal · $$$
booking essential
Martin Picard opened on Duluth in 2001 with one of the first fully open kitchens in Montreal, and he put foie gras on the poutine while the rest of the trade was chasing finesse and lightness.
Joe BeefMichelinjust added?
Solid · French Québécois · Petite-Bourgogne · $$$$
booking essential
Frédéric Morin, Allison Cunningham and David McMillan opened here in 2005 because Petite-Bourgogne was empty, and twenty years later the steak-frites and the côte de boeuf are among the best in Montreal.
La Banquisejust added?
Solid · Poutine · Le Plateau-Mont-Royal · $
walk-in
Pierre Barsalou was a firefighter when he opened a creamery on Rue Rachel Est in 1968; it turned into a 24-hour snack bar and the first poutines went on the board in the 1980s.
St-Viateur Bageljust added?
Solid · Montreal bagels · Mile End · $
walk-in
Myer Lewkowicz came out of Buchenwald and learned bagels at Hyman Seligman's bakery on St-Laurent, then he and his wife Emma set up a shop with Seligman on Saint-Viateur.
Somewhere tonight.
One tap hides everything shut today and everything that needs a booking, then sorts the rest by how close it is to you. I don’t publish opening hours, because they go stale faster than anyone can check them. Check the door before you go.