Whey

Whey's brioche carries an emulsion of buah keluak, a nut that is poisonous until it goes through a laborious preparation.

Why go

Barry Quek decided to cook while doing national service in Singapore, watching the army cooks turn out a hundred portions at a time. He cooked in European kitchens, including In de Wulf in Belgium. He told the MICHELIN Guide in 2022 that he could not cook French food as amazing as a French chef, so he turned to Asian food.1 He opened Whey with ZS Hospitality in May 2021, a year after his previous restaurant, Beet, closed. It won a MICHELIN star in the 2022 guide and still held one in 2026.1 10 Danny Yip, who owns The Chairman, had already eaten there twice by August 2021: the taste is great.9

Keith Teo is head chef now, with Quek as founder chef.11 The MICHELIN inspectors wrote up a seven-course tasting menu of modern European food with Singaporean flavors in 2025.4 Quek explained the advantage in 2022: I grew up eating Singaporean food, and I think that's one of the advantages that I have.1 The house named the restaurant for whey, the by-product of cheese-making that it says its kitchen turns into a seasoning.11 The South China Morning Post's 100 Top Tables called Whey outstanding since its inception in 2026 and listed the house bread, the buah keluak mi pau (bun) and the durian ice cream as dishes that stay on the menu.5

The durian ice cream is Maoshan Wang durian with Kristal caviar and milk crisps. Quek put the caviar on for salt: I like salty desserts, and I didn't want to just add salt to the durian ice cream, so I added caviar.2 The MICHELIN inspectors wrote in 2025 that it is worth paying extra for. The Post found it in 2026 good enough to win over even those unenthusiastic about the fruit itself.4 5

Lisa Cam of the Post ate the opening menu at a hosted meal in June 2021. Piping hot brioche made with a buah keluak nut emulsion and cultured butter had us in rapture. She also named the risk for a room like this: The problem with refining Southeast Asian cuisine is that parallels to budget-friendly options can so easily be drawn.3 Time Out's page on that opening menu singles out an insanely good Bak Kut Teh-inspired New Territories pork rib served with pork heart and cabbage.7

Order this / avoid

On the menu: the brioche with buah keluak emulsion. The MICHELIN inspectors called it moreish in 2025. The Post's 100 Top Tables put the house breads among the best in town in 2024.4 6
On the menu: the Maoshan Wang durian ice cream with Kristal caviar and milk crisps, a supplement (MICHELIN, 2025).4
On the menu: the bak kut teh (herbal pork ribs), reworked as a New Territories pork rib in a herbal glaze with white pepper, on the opening menu of 2021 (Cam, at a hosted meal; Time Out).3 7
On the menu: the flower clam soup. Cam at the hosted opening meal in 2021: an umami bomb from the shellfish.3

What locals & experts say

Janice Leung Hayes, Eater (2025): credits the quietly talented Barry Quek and sends readers for dishes built on buah keluak and petai, the stinky bean.8
MICHELIN Guide (2025): Highlights include moreish brioche with a buah keluak emulsion, creamy silver pomfret with squid and aromatic nasi ulam.4
Award: MICHELIN one star, every guide from 2022 to 2026.1 10

Good to know

Price: before the May 2021 opening Whey announced a tasting menu at HK$1,090 and a shorter menu at HK$890. Cam's 12-course long menu cost HK$1,190 in June 2021. Check the current price when you book.2 3
Timing: lunch and dinner, shut Wednesday (MICHELIN, 2025).4
Booking: online through ZS Hospitality's SevenRooms page, or call +852 2693 3198.12 7
Corkage: the Post gave the rule in 2024 as Bring one, buy one off the list.6
Where: UG/F, The Wellington, 198 Wellington Street, Central.4

Verdict

should-visit — Go to Whey for the tasting menu Barry Quek built on the Singaporean food he grew up on, cooked with European technique, and pay extra for the durian ice cream with caviar. Menus ran HK$890 to 1,190 in 2021. Lisa Cam warned in 2021 that refined Southeast Asian food invites comparison with the cheap versions.

Whey.