Wing.

Wing

Wing opens every meal with a cup of seasonal tea that follows the 24 solar terms of the Chinese calendar, corn and sugarcane in spring and pineapple and pear in late summer.

Why go

Vicky Cheng spent twenty years cooking French food, trained with Daniel Boulud in New York, and found his first success in Hong Kong with Vea, his French-Chinese room in The Wellington.48 After service there he cooked Chinese food for friends, which he says became my research and development time.7 In 2021 those invite-only midnight suppers became Wing, one floor below Vea. Asia's 50 Best Restaurants put it at No. 2 in 2026.42 He calls the cooking 'boundaryless Chinese', so authentic Chinese food that's not bound by tradition, and says: It's crucial to me that guests leave Wing feeling like they've had a Chinese meal.6

The crispy local chicken is one of Cheng's signature dishes. Susan Jung, the SCMP's restaurant critic, ate it in June 2021 and called it one of the best versions I've had, with succulent meat and delicately crisp skin.2 By February 2025 the kitchen was dry-ageing a whole local yellow chicken for a week and rubbing it with a sauce before cooking it to a very crisp skin. Matthias Ruhl, who reviews starred restaurants on his blog Travels for Stars, found it tender, juicy and flavorful and Not the best chicken I've ever had, but pretty good.1

Fish maw, the dried swim bladder of a fish, is where the eaters split. Cheng says he studies it all the time: Texture-wise, it's like a big piece of collagen, almost like beef tendon.7 Jung had it braised in abalone sauce in 2021: These were the thickest pieces of fish maw I've eaten, and had been perfectly cooked in the complex, intense sauce so they were tender but with the correct sticky, toothsome texture.2 Ruhl had it over rice in 2025 and found it its usual gelatinous self.1

Ruhl's verdict on the 2025 menu was an enjoyable series of dishes, but none of them were particularly mind-blowing.1 The Sydney chef Dan Hong ate there in 2023 and came away with the opposite view: The whole experience, from the service to the technical skill of the food and how original the food is, really blew me away.9

Order this / avoid

• On the menu: the crispy local chicken. Ruhl swapped it in for a baby pigeon when the restaurant offered substitutes after he booked in 2025.1
• On the menu: the razor clams with green chillies and seaweed. Ruhl in 2025: A wonderful example of elevated Chinese cuisine, prepared with great ingredients.1
• On the menu: Japanese oysters and century duck egg in a mala (numbing and spicy) sauce. Ruhl in 2025: The taste of the juicy oyster came through nicely in this dish - the sauce was there to complement it, not supplant it.1
• On the menu: ma yau, a local oily fish, with a sauce of fermented soybeans and mandarin peel. Ruhl in 2025: Looked simple, but very tasty.1
• On the menu: the fruit at the end. Ruhl called his February 2025 Hainan mango super sweet and very fragrant.1
• Avoid: the Alaskan king crab with crispy rice rolls, carved at the table before it is served. Ruhl in 2025 found it had cooled by then: Not bad, but the dish felt somewhat generic, nothing really stood out about it.1
• Drink: the tea. Ruhl in 2025: it's totally possible to do without any wine at Wing - there were constantly refilled tea cups on the table, and the tea even changed towards the end of the meal in order to better match the food.1

What locals & experts say

• Matthias Ruhl, Travels for Stars (February 2025, 16/20): Wing is definitely the much lighter meal of the two, and - with its more personal setting - a better location for a date. He was comparing it with Vea, where he ate the night before.1
• Susan Jung, SCMP (June 2021, the opening weeks; the staff knew her from Vea): her first dinner, in the soft opening, was somewhat one-dimensional - everything tasted heavy. A month later the tastes and textures were much more varied.2
• Winnie Chung, SCMP Good Eating (June 2021): The firefly squid with Yunnan chilli and bull kelp was such a hit that we were fighting over the last few pieces.3
• Janice Leung Hayes, Eater (2025): Cheng's precision shows in a house-made century egg with completely transparent egg whites or the airiest spring rolls housing slow-braised sea cucumber.8
• MICHELIN Guide (2025 page): The tasting menu features contemporary Chinese courses made with mostly local ingredients but underpinned by European techniques.10
• Standings: No. 11 on The World's 50 Best Restaurants 2025, and the Art of Hospitality Award 2025.56

Good to know

• Price: two tasting menus, HK$1,980 and HK$2,980 a head in February 2025, with wine pairings from HK$850 to HK$2,780.1 In 2026 the range was the same and corkage was HK$750.11
• Booking: online reservations open at midnight, up to 28 days ahead.10 Ruhl found Wing considerably harder to reserve than Vea in 2025. SCMP's 2026 guide describes a strict reservation and waiting list policy.111
• Groups: after Ruhl booked, the restaurant offered extra and substitute dishes, many of them shared by the table, so having more people at the table allows one to try more dishes.1
• Timing: shut Sunday. Dinner Monday to Saturday, plus lunch on Friday.105
• The room: six tables in a room done in jade and beige like a tea house, with plants right outside the 29th-floor windows.1
• Phone: +852 2711 0063.5
• Where: 29/F, The Wellington, 198 Wellington Street, Central, one floor below Vea.10

Verdict

should-visit — Go for Vicky Cheng's Chinese tasting menu, and bring a group so the table gets the shared extras. Cheng's signatures include the crispy local chicken, dry-aged a week before it is cooked. The one 2025 account found the meal enjoyable and lighter than Vea but never thrilling, at HK$1,980 or HK$2,980 a head before drinks, and a table takes planning.