Sylheti Brick Lane.

Most of Britain's Bangladeshi families have roots in Sylhet, and Jonathan Nunn counts three kitchens on Brick Lane actually cooking its food. Graam Bangla is one of them. Bhortha is the test of a Sylheti kitchen: vegetables cooked down and mashed and rolled into balls, seasoned hard enough with mustard oil that the bitterness is the point. The river fish arrive whole and bony on purpose. Take a spread of bhortha first, then the shutki satni, a fermented-fish and chili paste strong enough that a spoonful turns a bowl of white rice into a meal.