Durak Tantuni
Tantuni is a Mersin street dish where beef is chopped small and fried hard in cottonseed oil with tomato, parsley, raw onion and sumac, and Durak has been rolling it on West Green Road since 2002 (Square Meal).
Why go
The menu is one dish in two formats, which is the whole argument. The cook keeps the meat moving on the flat so the fat renders and the pieces take color instead of steaming, then it goes into a durum roll or gets piled on thick bread. Sumac and raw onion arrive at the end, so the sourness is sharp rather than cooked into the mixture. The room is a canteen, the doors stay open until 2am seven days a week, and a double wrap costs five pounds (Time Out, 2026). This is the Turkish end of Haringey rather than the Dalston ocakbasi strip, and it is a different tradition: griddle work, not charcoal.
Order this / avoid
- Order: the double tantuni in durum, plus the pickled green peppers from the table. The Infatuation warns they are properly hot, which is what you want against fatty beef. The bread version is the bigger, messier plate if you are eating rather than snacking.
- Avoid: ordering the single wrap. Time Out's own tip is to
double up your wrap for a mere 50p extra.
1
What locals & experts say
- The Infatuation (2025): Jake Missing scored it 8.5/10 on 23 June 2025 and described
a brightly lit, pared-back canteen of a restaurant
servinga chopped and fried beef mixture laden with sumac and parsley,
with the 2am close as the reason to file it under late night.2 - Time Out London (2026): carried in London's best cheap eats as of 27 May 2026, editor Leonie Cooper, described as
a Turkish wrap of thinly sliced beef, sauteed with spices and served with parsley, onions and tomato in lavash bread.
1 - Local rec: Jeff saved it off a Vittles crawl, filed as the intermediate stop (his note below).
Good to know
- Where it actually is: 390 West Green Road, N15, in Haringey. Any listing that says Dalston is wrong by about five miles.
- Timing: daily, noon to 2am. Late is the intended use.
- Booking: walk-in only, counter service, cheap enough that a group can order twice.
- Payment: at least one listing says card is not taken. Carry cash until you have confirmed it.
- Hygiene: FSA rating 5, Haringey, inspected 29 August 20254.
Jeff's take (his words)
- Note: "Intermediate vittles crawl." REAL.
Verdict
should-visit — One dish, cooked the Mersin way, for over twenty years, until 2am. The Infatuation gave it 8.5/10 in June 2025 and Time Out still lists it among London's best cheap eats in May 2026, which is a rare pairing for a wrap counter. The craft is narrow but genuine: beef chopped fine and fried hard so the sumac and raw onion land against hot fat rather than sitting on it. It is a detour if you are anywhere north of the river late, and it costs five pounds.