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Pubs & cask

Earl of Essex.

Craft beer · Islington · $$ · Go-to · verified

25 Danbury Street, Islington, London N1 8LE

walk-in

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Earl of Essex

The pub has confirmed to CAMRA that it holds no regular beers at all, so the pumpclips have come off and what is on is written on a board to the left of the door.

Why go

This was a Watney house, and the tiled frontage from that era holds a local listing, three stallrisers and seven pilasters. What it is now is a rotating beer pub run by Grace Land, a small London group that also owns the Saint Monday brewery, so some of the keg is the operator's own. The policy is the interesting part: no regulars, up to four cask ales turning over, and at least one real cider kept on a handpump permanently, which almost no craft pub bothers with (CAMRA). The cask rotation pulls in London brewers, Five Points and Redemption among them. Fred Waltman's survey counts five handpumps, thirteen keg taps and about twenty-five bottles and cans (London Beer Guide). The pub did brew its own beer once. It stopped years ago, and a lot of coverage has not caught up.

Order this / avoid

  • Order: read the board first, because it is the only listing. One of the four rotating casks, ideally the London one. The cider on handpump, since it is always there. Then something Belgian off the bottle list, which is the part of the range people miss.
  • Avoid: asking for the house beer. The on-site brewery is gone, and a 2017 review and our own spreadsheet both still say otherwise.

What locals & experts say

  • Fred Waltman, London Beer Guide, in the guide's own line: Lovely one roomed, light and airy pub close to Angel station. His survey is the source for the hardware count. Two signed reader notes sit below it and are visitors' words, one of them noting the brewery is long since gone.2
  • CAMRA's North London branch, in a record updated 23 June 2026, quoting the pub: The pub has confirmed that they no longer have regular beers and intend to rotate up to 4 cask ales and at least 1 real cider on handpump, this can include London brewed beers such as Five Points and Redemption. The same record states the on-site brewery ceased operations some time ago.1
  • Laura Reynolds, Londonist (4 February 2014), on why the location does not hold it back: Given its slightly off-the-beaten-track location in the residential back-streets between Angel and Canonbury, it's surprising how busy this pub can get. At popular times, beer geeks flock from far and wide to hang out here. Twelve years old, and her line about an in-house brew no longer applies.3
  • No chef or bartender vote. The London chef votes were searched on 1 August 2026 and hold nothing for this pub.

Good to know

  • Where: 25 Danbury Street N1 8LE, on the residential streets between Angel and Canonbury. Angel tube.
  • Timing: open from noon daily.
  • Booking: walk in.
  • How to order: the board to the left of the entrance lists every beer and cider. There are no pumpclips.
  • Food and garden: a full food menu, and a beer garden at the back.
  • Hygiene: the FSA records rating 5, inspected 12 September 2024, with components 5, 5 and 5, where lower is better.4
  • Michelin: not recorded either way. Our cached Michelin data is stars only.

Verdict

should-visit — The pub has told CAMRA it keeps no regular beers at all. Up to four cask ales rotate, at least one real cider stays on a handpump, and there are up to fourteen independent keg lines behind them, with about twenty-five bottles including a proper Belgian section. The pumpclips are gone, so what is on is written on a board to the left of the door, and that board is the whole point of coming. The cask rotation pulls in London brewers, Five Points and Redemption among them, and some of the keg is Saint Monday, which the pub's operator Grace Land also owns. Do not come for a house beer: the on-site brewery closed years ago, whatever the older listings say. It is a one-room pub on a residential Islington backstreet with a garden, a real food menu, and a Watney-era tiled frontage that is locally listed. Worth the detour for the range and the cider line, held back from higher by the absence of any recent critical assessment.

Order

  • Whatever is on the board to the left of the door. There are no pumpclips and no regular beers, so the board is the menu
  • One of the four rotating cask ales, which often means Five Points or Redemption
  • The real cider on handpump, which is kept on permanently and is rarer in a craft pub than it should be
  • Something from the Belgian end of the bottle list, which runs to about twenty-five and is the part people walk past

At a glance

  • Booking: walk-in
  • Timing: all day
  • Best for: drinks, lunch, dinner, groups ok, solo
  • Verified 2026-08-01

Who vouches

Fred Waltman and Laura Reynolds wrote about it

  • “Lovely one roomed, light and airy pub close to Angel station.”

    Fred Waltman, author · London Beer Guide · 2026-08-01

  • “Given its slightly off-the-beaten-track location in the residential back-streets between Angel and Canonbury, it's surprising how busy this pub can get. At popular times, beer geeks flock from far and wide to hang out here.”

    Laura Reynolds, journalist · Londonist · 2014-02-04

Where

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25 Danbury Street, Islington, London N1 8LE

Where to go next

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Key: what the badges mean

★ Michelin star · Bib Bib Gourmand · Green ★ Michelin Green Star · Michelin in the Michelin guide, no distinction · J Jeff's own note · Jeff ★★★★☆ 2019 his own rating out of five, and the year he gave it · new the venue itself opened recently · just added recently added to Jeff's list, whatever its age · 2◆ independent chef/industry recommendations · ! hygiene caution in force · ? no current public hygiene record, not a caution · keep walking Jeff has been and would walk past it · the line under a name says when to go: Destination (plan around it) / Solid (the dependable send) / Listed (on the radar). Under it, where the entry states one: how the room takes bookings, and the date I last checked the entry.

Record

page id
earl-of-essex
city
London
group
Pubs & cask
category
Pub
cuisine
Craft beer
area
Islington
price
$$
editorial class
Go-to
verdict
Should visit
how I know
verified
confidence
medium
status
Open
address
25 Danbury Street, Islington, London N1 8LE
coordinates
51.533862, -0.099733
last verified
2026-08-01