FOWL
The whole-bird idea runs all the way to the pastry section, which is where the chicken fat creme caramel comes from.
Why go
FOWL is the second restaurant from Jack Croft and Will Murray, the chefs behind Fallow, and the sibling of Roe in Canary Wharf. Both trained at Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, Croft by way of El Celler de Can Roca and Murray with The Fat Duck, The Clove Club, Core and Royal Hospital Road behind him (Fallow). The premise is that no part of the bird goes unused,
and the kitchen means it: chicken liver parfait with black cherry, a pie served with an actual chicken head, a chicken fat tarte tatin (The Nudge). The birds are soy-free and pasture raised for twice as long as standard, sourced from The Ethical Butcher and Rare Breed Meats. The group is B Corp certified. Westminster rated the kitchen 5, though that inspection dates to 31 October 2023.
Order this / avoid
- Order: the Four Strips with the Szechuan honey sauce, a triple crisp chicken fillet bun, and a chicken fat dessert. The Infatuation on the strips:
Chicken strips are crisp and juicy, sauces are balanced.
2 - Avoid: loading up on the Koffmann fries and taking the mac and cheese on your own. The same review says
the food can sometimes lean too much (overly salty fries, extra umami mac and cheese).
2
What locals & experts say
- The Nudge (Jason Allen, 4 January 2024, 8.3/10):
literally everything on the menu at FOWL includes some form of poultry, even dessert.
He also names the suppliers,The Ethical Butcher & Rare Breed Meats, who pasture-raise their birds for twice as long as standard.
1 - The Infatuation (Sinéad Cranna, 24 February 2025, 7.5): a
'beak to feet' chicken restaurant
and aglorified fast food joint
wherequality still counts.
Her criticism, in her words:the food can sometimes lean too much (overly salty fries, extra umami mac and cheese), the chicken is great.
2 - Harden's (2026): no rating yet.
Not enough people have commented yet.
6 - Guest chefs: Pierre Koffmann and the Table Manners team have cooked here, per The Nudge in January 2024. The Koffmann fries were still on the menu The Infatuation reviewed in February 2025.
- Local rec: Jeff's row calls it a casual beak to tail chicken place from the Fallow team. REAL.
Good to know
- Timing: Tuesday to Saturday noon to 11pm, Sunday noon to 10pm. Closed Monday.
- Booking: worth booking, particularly for the Sunday roast.
- Dietary: read the venue's own line before you go. FOWL states: "We always aim to accommodate dietary requirements where possible, but please kindly note that we cannot guarantee a trace free environment. A large majority of our FOWL Menu does contain allergens." Nothing is flagged here as a result. For vegetarians, The Nudge says everything on the menu contains poultry, and the hen of the woods Sunday roast is the one listed exception, so ask what the gravy is.
- Price: The Nudge bands it three out of four. No individual prices are published.
- Hygiene: FSA record 1656550, rating 5 under Westminster, inspected 31 October 2023.
- Getting there: 3 Norris Street in St James's Market, a few minutes from Piccadilly Circus. Fallow is around the corner and Roe is the group's Canary Wharf room.
Jeff's take (his words)
- Note: "Casual beak to tail chicken place from fallow team" REAL. The venue and The Infatuation both call it beak to feet, and Jason Allen's line is that even the dessert has poultry in it.
Verdict
should-visit — Jack Croft and Will Murray, both out of Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, took the whole-bird idea to the end of the menu: a chicken fat creme caramel, a chicken fat tarte tatin, and a pie that arrives with an actual chicken head on it. The birds are soy-free and pasture raised for twice as long as standard, from The Ethical Butcher and Rare Breed Meats. The Nudge scored it 8.3 and The Infatuation 7.5, the latter calling it a glorified fast food joint where quality still counts, and marking down fries and mac and cheese for heaviness. Go for the strips, the bun and a chicken fat dessert. If you avoid allergens, read the venue's own warning first, because it says it cannot guarantee a trace free environment.