Napoli on the Road (Chiswick)
Michele Pascarella sold wood-fired pizza off a three-wheeled Ape Piaggio at London markets from 2016, then put the oven into this Devonshire Road room in 2019 (Time Out).
Why go
The dough is the argument. Pascarella works the contemporary Neapolitan style, a wood-fired base that stays thin under the toppings while the rim puffs into what the Good Food Guide calls "a thick pillowy crust and a thin base" (Good Food Guide). Toppings get treated like restaurant dishes rather than pizza garnish: a 24-hour beef-shin ragu under a parmigiano reggiano DOP fondue on the ricordi d'infanzia, Stilton with cherry tomato jam and crisp parmesan chips on the house Cheesewick (Good Food Guide, Time Out). Harden's rates him "a pizza-dough genius, he's still hands-on in the kitchen," which matters because the group now runs Richmond and Soho too (Harden's). This Chiswick site is the original.
Order this / avoid
- Order: ricordi d'infanzia for the ragu and fondue, a plate of fritti before it, and the "homemade pistachio tiramisu," which Harden's calls "dessert heaven on a plate" (Harden's).
- Avoid: turning up here for the pizza tasting menu. That runs at the Soho branch on Wardour Street at £65 a head (Time Out).
What locals & experts say
- Harden's (2026): "Absolutely knockout pizza," food scored 4 out of 5, average spend £42. ref
- 50 Top Pizza Europa 2026: first place for a third consecutive year, the guide calling the pizzeria "one of the most dynamic and influential realities of contemporary pizza in the world." ref
- 50 Top Pizza, Global Pizza Maker of the Year 2023: the individual award to Pascarella, alongside 46th in the World list and 8th in Europa that year. ref
- Good Food Guide: "It's all about the toppings at this rustically charming eatery." ref
Good to know
- Timing: dinner only Monday to Thursday from 5pm, with lunch added Friday to Sunday from noon, closing around 10pm (Harden's).
- Booking: the room is small and the European title draws traffic, so reserve for weekends. The venue's own site blocks automated access, so confirm on 020 7062 5723.
- Dietary: nothing published by the venue that could be read. Third-party apps claim vegan pizzas and gluten-free pasta; treat as unconfirmed and ask.
- Branches: Chiswick at 9A Devonshire Road W4 2EU is this row. Richmond is 12 Red Lion Street, Soho is 140 Wardour Street.
Jeff's take (his words)
- Note: Global pizza maker of the year 2023. Top 50 pizza of the year 2023.
Verdict (Chef Jeff ladder)
must-visit — First place at 50 Top Pizza Europa in 2024, 2025 and 2026, with the man who made it holding Global Pizza Maker of the Year 2023, all coming out of one small room on a Chiswick side street. The contemporary Neapolitan crust here is the reference version in Britain and the toppings are built like restaurant dishes, a 24-hour beef-shin ragu with parmigiano fondue on one, Stilton and tomato jam on another. Three straight European titles is a durable basis, not hype, which is what puts it on the top rung.