Smoked by AI · London · people

Andrew Barnes

Critic — Hackney restaurants and bars for the Hackney Citizen, the borough paper's food desk. Dish-by-dish reviews that name what did not work alongside what did.

bylined borough-paper reviewing, which GUIDELINES names as the expert-local class ("borough/neighbourhood papers' food desks, Camden New Journal class") and which carries texture the national desks miss in E8. His copy carries the price range, the specific dish and the criticism: on Pamela's vegan ramen, "The broth was a little underflavoured for me."

Their own reviews and picks.

Their own judgment, in their own words, by the piece it appeared in.

• Hackney Citizen, 'Pamela, Dalston, restaurant review: Asian-inspired vegan menu with no Ayres and graces' ↗their review · 2018-05-09
  • PamelaDalston

    “Rather than fill them with cucumber and other such watery horrors, these are packed with lemongrass-flavoured soya pork substitute. This gives them a meaty heft, but coupled with the dipping sauce they're so thrillingly tangy and lively that any carnivorousness is an afterthought.”