Lana
To cut its steaks, Lana brings a box of handmade knives and lets you choose a handle of bone, wood or alpaca.
Why go
Martín and Joaquín Narváiz, two young Argentine brothers, opened Lana on Calle de Ponzano in 2022. Fernando Calero Gil of Gastroactitud found them working the floor that September and called it perhaps the best Argentine grill in the capital.
1 The brothers told Guía Repsol in 2025: We don't treat meat the way it is usually done in Argentina. We like to mix the way they grill there with what is done in the Basque Country.
2 In 2022 they told Calero Gil that the key is to bring each cut to temperature before it goes on the grill, so the fat melts quickly and the center is never cold.1
Start with the empanadas de vacío (flank steak), filled with knife-cut meat and cooked over the coals. Calero Gil called them spectacular: the best in Madrid. Juicy, with a crisp, light pastry and a tasty filling of meat, vegetables and egg.
1 Isaac Agüero Fuentes of the Complicidad Gastronómica blog ate the grilled offal in half portions on a full Tuesday night in 2023. He called the chinchulines (lamb intestines) glorious.
4 Then comes the aged beef. Calero Gil had a Galician chop aged 250 days: What power and depth of flavor! Though probably not for every taste.
1 Agüero Fuentes had a chop aged a year and found it free of any taste of rot or mushrooms.
4
Agüero Fuentes wrote in 2023: At Lana, the diner is not asked how the meat should be cooked.
4 Time Out Madrid wrote in 2025 that the brothers adjust the doneness of the bife de chorizo to suit local tastes.
7 Guía Repsol reported in 2025 that Argentines like their meat more done, so the brothers ask an Argentine diner how he wants it.2 Hugo Muñoz, the chef of Ugo Chan, said in October 2025: Lana is absolute refinement. They have taken the service of an asador to the excellence of an elegant restaurant that would, without doubt, deserve a MICHELIN star.
6
Order this / avoid
- Order: the empanadas de vacío (Fernando Calero Gil, Gastroactitud, 2022).1
- Order: the suckling-lamb croquetas,
powerful, creamy inside and crisp outside
to Fernando Calero Gil (Gastroactitud, 2022).1 - Order: the molleja (veal sweetbread). laGastrolista (2022):
The best I have eaten in my life!
5 - Order: the chinchulines (Isaac Agüero Fuentes, Complicidad Gastronómica, 2023).4
- Order: the Aberdeen Angus ojo de bife (rib eye),
magnificent flavor and grilling point
to laGastrolista (2022).5 - Drink: El Enemigo 2019 Chardonnay. Jesús Rojas of Guía Repsol drank it through a meal in 2025, with the brothers at the table:
a white aged under a veil of flor that is all butteriness.
2
What locals & experts say
- Isaac Agüero Fuentes, Complicidad Gastronómica (2023):
Even as an expensive restaurant, they don't load the bill unnecessarily.
4 - MICHELIN Guide (2025):
The unusual collection of artisanal knives and the extensive list of Argentinian wines add to its appeal.
8 - Award: 2 Soles Guía Repsol, first given in 2025, after 1 Sol in 2023.3
Good to know
- Where: Calle de Ponzano 59.3
- Timing: shut on Sunday in 2022 (Gastroactitud). Call to check the other days.1 Time Out Madrid (2025):
Make sure you have plenty of time when you visit: this remarkable experience should not be rushed.
7 - Booking: book online through restaurantelana.myrestoo.net or by phone on 626 869 855.3 Book well ahead: in early 2025 a caller was told to wait
a little more than two months
for a table.2 - Price: 70 to 90 euros a head in September 2022.1
Verdict
should-visit — Book Lana well ahead for knife-cut empanadas, grilled offal and aged beef from the Narváiz brothers' grill, with an Argentine wine beside them, and leave the evening free. In 2022 it cost 70 to 90 euros a head.