Bar Liberty
Roughly fifteen wines sit open at any one time, drawn from a list of about two hundred bins bought direct from independent growers.
Why go
Casey Wall, Michael Bascetta and Manu Potoi opened this in 2016 as a deliberate break from the formality all three had worked inside, and the wine list is where that shows (Young Gun of Wine). It runs about two hundred bins, split fairly evenly between Australian and imported, weighted toward minimal-intervention winemaking and growers farming sustainably. Feature pages take the list somewhere specific for a while, the Jura or Basket Range or Beaujolais, and then move on. Fifteen or so are open by the glass at a time, which is the number that decides whether a wine bar is actually working. The kitchen is not a garnish either. The Polish side of it produces gruyere-filled pierogi and smoky kabanosy skewers, and Sunday lunch runs a set menu at sixty-five dollars (The Infatuation). Bascetta left the business in 2023 and Douglas Hoxley runs the pans now.
Order this / avoid
- Order: ask what is open and let them pour. The Martini if you want the drinks side, since it is built on olive-leaf gin from the Yarra Valley. Pierogi and kabanosy to eat alongside. Sunday lunch if you want the value version.
- Avoid: Mondays, when it is closed. Sunday service stops at five, so it is a lunch, not an evening. Turning up unbooked on a weekend night with a group is optimistic.
What locals & experts say
- Ellen Fraser, The Infatuation Melbourne (January 2025):
there's also a ripper beer selection, a decent assemblage of mezcal and grappa, and imaginative cocktails built with mostly local liquor. The Martini uses olive-leaf gin from the Yarra Valley wine region, and a Japanese Slipper is stained blue with Melbourne-made curaçao.
3 - Nat Thaipun, MasterChef Australia winner, asked by Broadsheet where to take a date in February 2026:
If it's early days of dating, Bar Liberty.
4 - Alejandro Saravia, chef-owner of Farmer's Daughters and Morena, answering the best-wine-bar question fifteen months earlier:
Neighbourhood Wine or Bar Liberty.
Two different pieces, two different years, so this counts as a second independent industry interest rather than an echo of the first.5 - Young Gun of Wine, the wine specialist, on the register the room works in:
For a laid-back venue, Bar Liberty has some serious fine-dining chops, both in the kitchen and on the floor.
2
Good to know
- Where: 234 Johnston Street, Fitzroy, a few blocks east of Brunswick Street.
- Timing: Tuesday to Saturday from 5pm, Sunday noon to 5pm, closed Monday.
- Booking: online, and worth it. There is a private room upstairs for 8 to 20 people.
- Outside: a courtyard of about 30 seats, which is the summer answer.
- Sites: one premises. The related rooms are separate businesses: Falco and Capitano from the same crew, and Hands Down on Greeves Street, opened October 2025 by Bar Liberty's former manager Dominic Xavier with co-owner Manu Potoi.
- Awards, as claimed by the venue: its own site lists a Good Food Donlevy Fitzpatrick Award for best food in a bar and a Time Out best wine bar title. Neither carries a year on that page and neither could be pinned to an edition here, so both are the venue's claim rather than a recorded award.
- Hygiene: Victoria publishes no consumer-facing food-hygiene rating, so there is no Australian equivalent of an FSA score to record.
Verdict
should-visit — A Fitzroy room that two working Melbourne chefs name in two different years, for two different reasons, which is the strongest non-Jeff signal available. About fifteen wines sit open at a time out of roughly two hundred bins bought direct from small growers, and the list carries feature pages that go deep on the Jura or Basket Range for a while and then move on. That is the wine version of a rotating tap wall, and it is the reason this sits above a room with a good-looking list that never changes. The kitchen is real rather than decorative: gruyere pierogi and kabanosy off the chef's Polish side, and a sixty-five dollar Sunday set that is the best-value way in. It holds at should-visit rather than must-visit because the only bylined review we can reach is The Infatuation's, which ranks below a masthead critic, and because the two awards the venue advertises could not be pinned to a year.