il laboratorio del gelato
New York chefs come here to have a flavor built for their own menus, and the list has grown to close to 300.3 It opened in August 2002 as a lab for exactly that, and the counter on Ludlow Street is the retail half of it.3
Why go
The company supplies restaurant kitchens across the city as well as this counter, which is why the flavor list runs as long as it does.3 Two shops carry it: this one on Ludlow Street at Houston, and a second on Third Avenue at 63rd.4
Order this / avoid
- Order: the affogato with a scoop of vanilla or salted caramel. That is the order Dominique Ansel, the pastry chef behind the Cronut, goes back to here, and he puts it down to the simplicity of the thing.1
- Order: something savory or spicy alongside it. Carina Finn names cheddar cheese, beet, pink peppercorn and tarragon as the safe bets.2
- Avoid: planning around one flavor. The list turns over, so ask at the case.
What locals & experts say
- Dominique Ansel, in The Infatuation (22 October 2025):
I've been going to Il Laboratorio del Gelato ever since I first moved to New York nearly 20 years ago. There's a huge variety of rotating flavors to choose from, and it's a mix of more traditional flavors, seasonal fruits, and also some bold or unexpected ingredients too like Turkish fig or tarragon or even wasabi.
1 - Carina Finn, The Infatuation (30 August 2022):
This popular spot on the LES has some of the most unique gelato flavors in the city, and we've yet to try one we didn't like.
2
Good to know
- Booking: walk-in, and it runs late into the evening.
Verdict
should-visit — Order for range here. The list is built to chefs' briefs, so the odd flavors are the reason to walk in and the classics are the safety net under them. It stays open late enough to be a dessert plan.