Au Petit Panisse
In February 2026 Au Petit Panisse served a terrine of pork and monkfish liver, lifted by mustard-seed pickles.1
Why go
Julia Sedefdjian, who at 21 became the youngest chef in France to win a MICHELIN star, told Fodor's in January 2024 that she goes straight to this bistro on rue de Montreuil on her days off from Baieta: It's got great wines by the glass, daily specials that change all the time, excellent value at lunch and even at dinner.
3 Emily Monaco of The Infatuation explained the value that April: The 11th is full of small plate spots where you're forced to fill up on bread to leave satisfied, but not at Au Petit Panisse. Their mains come with sides, like bitter greens and roasted potatoes.
2
In February 2026 the menu changed every week with the deliveries, so read the chalkboard before you pick. Vincent Humbert of L'Essentiel ate here that month and called it bistro cooking that leans toward fine dining, without fuss but with very fine plates
(une cuisine bistro qui tend vers le gastro, sans chichi mais avec de très belles assiettes
).1 Monaco had found the same in 2024: seasonal dishes with enough “cheffy” touches to make them feel new,
and servers who poured only natural wine.2
Jeff Schilde took over the kitchen in 2018 and told Vice that March what he was after: I'm trying to cook again the food we knew in bistros. Simple things with good basic produce.
(J'essaie de refaire une cuisine qu'on a connue dans les bistrots. Des choses simples avec de bons produits de base.
)5 Gault&Millau described the room in 2025 as an old butcher's shop with its period tiles and woodwork, and found in it a little of the gentleness and simplicity of the South
(un peu de la douceur et de la simplicité du Sud
).4 Panisse, the name on the door, is a fried chickpea-flour specialty eaten between Nice and Marseille.7
Order this / avoid
- Order: the hand-cut beef tartare with guanciale and anchovy, on the board in 2024 and again in 2026. Vincent Humbert, L'Essentiel, February 2026, had it with smashed potatoes:
it makes a change, and it's roguish
(ça change et c'est canaille
).1 Emily Monaco, The Infatuation, April 2024, had itmolded around an egg yolk.
2 - Order: the veal shank, if it's on. Vincent Humbert, L'Essentiel, February 2026:
the veal shank is crisp and melting
(le jarret de veau est croustillant et fondant
).1 - Order: the white chocolate panna cotta with celery flower and hazelnut, if it comes back. Julia Sedefdjian, Fodor's, January 2024, called it
magnificent.
3
What locals & experts say
- Gault&Millau, 2025:
No showing off here, but seriousness on the plate and a smile in the glass
(Ici, pas d'esbroufe, mais du sérieux dans l'assiette et du sourire dans le verre
).4 - Alexander Lobrano, September 2018, under Jeff Schilde:
a deconstructed oeuf mayonnaise with radishes, crabmeat and powdered almonds was a dish all of us immediately decided to copy at home.
6
Good to know
- Booking: book by phone on 01 43 71 37 90. Vincent Humbert found
tight-packed tables
(des tables serrées
) in February 2026.1 - Price: starters cost 9 to 14 euros, mains 22 to 28 and desserts 9 to 10 in February 2026.1 A glass of wine cost around 7 euros in 2025.4
- When: in February 2026 it served lunch and dinner every day but Sunday.1 Gault&Millau listed Tuesday as the closing day in 2025, so call before going on a Tuesday.4 It was open on Mondays in 2024.2
Verdict
should-visit — Go for a weekly chalkboard of bistro dishes that a starred chef and two critics praised between 2024 and 2026, and have the beef tartare if it's on. The prices hold up at dinner as well as at lunch. Seats are close together, and the guides disagree on the closing day, so phone first.