Le Servan
Tatiana Levha grills veal sweetbreads and sends them out under phrik phao, the Thai chili paste, in a corner room on rue Saint-Maur she has held with her sister Katia since 2014.2 She learned the technique under Alain Passard at Arpège and Pascal Barbot at Astrance.1
Why go
The division is clean: Tatiana cooks, Katia runs the floor and the wine.1 The Asian half of the menu is Tatiana's own, and Time Out's critic reads it as technique she owns: her confident approach to flavours is "rooted in real technique (and her Philippine heritage)."1 The room seats about forty under mouldings, a trompe l'oeil ceiling and a brass bar, and the flea-market look is deliberate.1 Between the two services they put out zakouskis, which is where the cooking is at its least French: blood sausage wontons with sweet chili, mussels with chili and Thai basil, marinated peppers with fromage blanc and za'atar.3
Order this / avoid
- The grilled sweetbreads, which Time Out's 2026 list tells you to check.2
- The spring rolls, raw tuna, peanuts, an astringent dip, and the critic who scored the room loved them outright.1
- The veal with roasted carrots, peas, leaves and a pink dollop of spicy rhubarb sauce, which was the best plate of that meal.1
- The XXL ravioli of spinach and egg yolk in smoked curry butter, off one of Le Fooding's nights.3
- Avoid ordering blind off the short menu. Time Out's critic found something forgettable at each course and said the brevity made it worse.1
What locals & experts say
- Time Out Paris scored it five out of five in 2014 and then complained anyway:
We felt that there was one very good meal here, but that the duff number at each course was troubling on a menu that makes a virtue of its brevity.
1 - Time Out again, twelve years later:
The cuisine, which hops freely between France and Asia, is boldly innovative and very now: check out the grilled sweetbreads boosted by phrik phao (spicy Thai sauce).
2 - And on the room, which they rate as highly as the food:
The setting is drop-dead gorgeous: ceiling mouldings, a vintage fresco, and a bouquet of flowers on the massive brass bar.
2 - Le Fooding on one night's plates:
explosive roasted pork belly with perfectly crispy skin served with tender eggplant; before a Mirabelle plum tartlet with sweet honey ice cream.
3 - Time Out on the 2014 spring rolls:
Handmade spring rolls with raw tuna, peanuts and an astringent dipping sauce were more like dumplings, delicate, fresh and fragant. We loved them.
1
Good to know
- Book it. About forty covers, and Time Out describes the room filling in waves at each service.1
- Prices when they were last published: a 28-euro three-course lunch in 2014, and a carte of 41 to 69 euros with 10-euro zakouskis in 2017. I have not found a newer figure.13
- Katia's list leans Burgundy, reds and whites both.2
- The room is in the 2026 MICHELIN selection with no distinction.4
- Hygiene: I have not read a French inspection record for this room, so I have nothing to report either way.
Jeff's take (his words)
- Note: "Multiple recs, small casual place"
Verdict
should-visit — Book it, and if the zakouskis are running take those first. Tatiana Levha cooked for Alain Passard and Pascal Barbot before she took this corner with her sister, and the Thai chili work comes out of that training. Time Out's five stars came on the same page as a complaint about a weak dish at every course.