Parcelles
When Emily Monaco of The Infatuation ate at Parcelles in 2023, the pig's head terrine came
with its delicate ribbons of white fat and homemade pickle garnish.1
Why go
Sarah Michielsen spent twenty years running restaurants, among them the starred Itinéraires with her then partner Sylvain Sendra, before she opened Parcelles in 2021 with the sommelier Bastien Fidelin.57 They took over Le Taxi Jaune, a bistro on rue Chapon dating from 1936. We added two mirrors, but otherwise we barely wanted to touch the room,
Michielsen told American Express in May 2022 (On a ajouté deux miroirs, mais pour le reste, on voulait à peine toucher la salle
).5 The MICHELIN inspectors described the vintage tiled floor, the gilded ceiling and the copper and wood counter in 2025 and called it The quintessence of retro Paris!
6
Fidelin told the same profile, Wine is actually the starting point of our business
(Le vin est même le point de départ de notre affaire
).5 The restaurant is named for it. A parcelle is a small plot of vines whose soil and position give the grapes their character, as the food writer Alexander Lobrano explained in 2022.2 Lobrano found organic and natural wines from France and beyond on Fidelin's list.2 Emily Monaco put it at 1,000 wines in 2023.1
For the food, Michielsen promised The bistro cooking of always, with cream, butter, flavour!
(Du bistrot de toujours, avec de la crème, du beurre, du goût !
).5 Julien Chevallier, who trained at Justine, Uno and Semilla, was the cook in 2021. Eater's list still named him as the chef in June 2026.37 Lobrano wrote in 2022 that Chevallier cooks from the markets and he aims to enhance the natural flavors of the produce he cooks rather than temper them into other tastes.
2
The dish to book for is the ris de veau (veal sweetbreads). In 2022 the kitchen browned them in beurre noisette and set them on whipped potatoes.5 Lobrano had them at lunch that year, impeccably cooked, with some light crusting and garnish of fried sage leaves,
over a sauce of veal stock and pan juices.2 Sébastien Blondon, writing on Gilles Pudlowski's blog in October 2021, liked the capers on top, which bring a healthy touch of acidity to the crisp meat
(apportent au croustillant de la pièce de viande une saine touche d'acidité
).3 The Paris cookbook writer David Lebovitz ordered them on his last visit, on a favorites list he updated in July 2026: the fried sweetbreads, which are often not a dish I'm wont to order, but I was glad we did; it was one of the best things I've eaten in Paris.
8
Order this / avoid
The chalkboard menu changes all the time, so these come and go.7
- Order: the lemon cream tart. Rosa Poulsard of Le Fooding, 2021:
a generous slice of tangy lemon cream tart with an almond and crumble topping.
4 - Order: the steamed clams. Alexander Lobrano, 2022:
succulent and remarkably fresh.
2 - Order: the crème caramel. Alexander Lobrano, 2022:
a truly perfect creme caramel.
2 - Drink: what Bastien Fidelin suggests. Alexander Lobrano was leaning toward a Rhône in 2022, let Fidelin pour Jessica Litaud's 2019 Saint-Véran instead and found it
outstanding with this meal.
2
What locals & experts say
- The MICHELIN inspectors, 2025:
Ten out of ten for this restaurant that fully deserves its success. (Book if you can.)
6 - Alexander Lobrano, Eater, June 2026:
This stylish comfort food is exactly what Paris is hungry for right now, especially paired with charming service.
7 - Sébastien Blondon, on Gilles Pudlowski's blog, 2021:
The service is admirable and lively, the team fine, the acoustics kind
(Le service est admirable et vivant, l'équipe est belle, l'acoustique heureuse
).3 - Emily Monaco, The Infatuation, 2023, on the room:
call it a bistro that got Botox.
1
Good to know
- Days: lunch and dinner Monday to Friday. Shut Saturday and Sunday.96
- Booking: book on the house site when tables are released, two weeks ahead, because the room takes no walk-ins. David Lebovitz calls it
one of the hardest reservations in town.
8 Emily Monaco found a table at lunchsignificantly easier to snag
than dinner in 2023.1 The phone is 01 43 37 91 64.7 - Price: Alexander Lobrano put the average à la carte bill at 50 euros in 2022.2
- Wine to take home: in 2022 the owners also ran a wine shop and épicerie across rue Chapon, selling the sommelier's wines to take away.5
- Getting there: Métro Arts et Métiers or Rambuteau.3
Verdict
should-visit — Book a weekday lunch at Parcelles for bistro cooking with cream and butter, the ris de veau if it is on the board, and a bottle Bastien Fidelin chooses. Getting in is the hard part. In 2023 tables went online two weeks ahead, and lunch was easier to get than dinner.