Il Sanlorenzo
Enrico Pierri follows the fish auctions on the Argentario for Il Sanlorenzo, and the last boxes reach Via dei Chiavari just before dinner.
Why go
Pierri, a Neapolitan host, runs Il Sanlorenzo with his partner Elena Lenzini in a palazzo built over the foundations of the Theatre of Pompey, a few steps from Campo de' Fiori (MICHELIN Guide; Scatti di Gusto). The name comes from the Scuola di San Lorenzo, the painters of the Pastificio Cerere, whose work hangs in the rooms (Scatti di Gusto). Vincenzo Pagano of Scatti di Gusto wrote in 2025 that Pierri buys no fish from suppliers or from the Lazio coast markets (Scatti di Gusto). MICHELIN's inspector wrote in 2024 that the real star is the fish on the menu, most of which comes from the island of Ponza
(MICHELIN Guide).
Katie Parla, who sells food tours in Rome, wrote in 2014 that the freshness of their seafood is unrivaled in Rome
(Katie Parla). Romeing called it in 2022 recognized by many, if not all, as the best fish restaurant in Rome
(Romeing). Pagano gave it 10 out of 10 in 2025 and called it a fish restaurant that remains the best in Rome.
It has no MICHELIN star, and Pagano laid that at the guide's door (Scatti di Gusto).
Start raw. Pagano's scampi and red prawns had size, freshness and succulence fit for the Formula One World Championship of the sea.
For 60 euros in 2025 the Quattro antipasti scelti da Enrico
(four antipasti chosen by Enrico) leave the choice to Pierri. Pagano found the cooked merluzzo alla pizzaiola (cod in the pizza-maker's style), lightly marinated and with the classic ingredients,
an unforgettable
dish (Scatti di Gusto). Time Out's editors singled out the cooked dishes in 2018: the unbeatable spaghetti with sea urchins and the daily catch baked simply in a crust of salt
(Time Out). Parla wrote in 2016: The spaghetti with mollusks (sometimes razor clams, other times clams) at Il SanLorenzo are so delicious, if insanely expensive at €25 a plate. I'm a super fan, though not everyone loves how al dente they serve their pasta
(Katie Parla). Pierri's Naples shows at the end, in the baba with old-style cream (Scatti di Gusto).
The bill is the catch. The one tasting menu ran seven courses for 130 euros in 2025, and Pagano judged the prices suited to the setting and the ingredients: as high as the dishes
(Scatti di Gusto). Eight years earlier he had wondered whether it was the basic kitchen technique, or the price-to-quality ratio that is not always in line
(Scatti di Gusto). Leonardo Romanelli of Dissapore warned in 2012 of a high rate of VIPs most people resent
(Dissapore).
Order this / avoid
- Order: the crudi, with the raw scampi and red prawns, Pagano (2025).1
- Order: the merluzzo alla pizzaiola, Pagano (2025).1
- Order: the spaghetti ai ricci di mare (sea-urchin spaghetti), Time Out (2018).5
- Order: the spaghetti with clams or razor clams, Parla (2016).4
- Order: the baba with old-style cream, the house dessert in Pagano's account (2025).1
What locals & experts say
- Alessandro Pipero, owner of Pipero Roma (Gambero Rosso International, 2016):
For the quality of the seafood and service, I suggest Il Sanlorenzo.
10 - Forbes Italia, 100 Eccellenze (2023):
The raw dishes rule, and no competitor stands up to them.
9
Good to know
- Where: Via dei Chiavari 4/5, by Campo de' Fiori.
- When: dinner Monday to Saturday and lunch on weekdays from Tuesday. MICHELIN also lists Saturday lunch, so check that day and Sunday on +39 06 686 5097.
- Booking: Parla's advice (2014):
Book in advance for dinner, but I walk in at lunch and always find a place. A bonus: they are fabulously kind to solo diners.
3
Verdict
should-visit — Book Il Sanlorenzo by Campo de' Fiori for raw shellfish and sea-urchin spaghetti from a host who chases the catch himself. Let Enrico Pierri pick the antipasti. The bill runs high, and the pasta comes very firm.