Aker
Aker dry-ages some of its sushi fish for anywhere from a few days to nearly a month, much as beef is dry-aged.
Why go
Brandon Hargett, who also runs the Hoppers and Ruby River Steakhouse restaurants, spent much of the pandemic traveling in Brazil, Mexico and Peru. He wanted Aker, in the old Maxwell's space on Exchange Place, to carry some of what he ate there. The house calls it a modern Japanese izakaya with a Latin twist.
Ted Scheffler ate there in January 2025 and called it one of the most important and unique dining destinations to open in Salt Lake City in the past few years
(Utah Stories). In December 2025 Johnny Lopez was the executive chef and Pae Randall the sushi chef (SLUG).
Start with the aged fish. Scheffler wrote that dry-aging takes excess moisture out of fish and gives it a rich umami aspect
and a rich, buttery mouthfeel
without any fishy taste. He ate the aged bluefin as a maguro crudo, seven slices with a blueberry-habanero jam and the house yuzu kosho: This crudo is a remarkable and inventive way to serve top-notch, dry-aged bluefin
(Utah Stories). SLUG's reviewer tried the aged toro with a truffle dashi in December 2025 and was surprised by how tender it was and how easily it compared to the fresh tuna being served
(SLUG). Stuart Melling of Gastronomic SLC counted eight aged cuts on the list in 2025, or a flight the chef picks (Gastronomic SLC).
Once a month for the eight months to December 2025, the kitchen broke down a 250-pound bluefin in front of the room for a ten-course dinner called the Tuna Fight Club, with a different menu each time. A seat cost $195 in December 2025. SLUG's reviewer scraped rib meat off the bones for a tostada and called the last course, a miso tuna meatball in red chile, better than any mere meatball ought to be
(SLUG).
Order this / avoid
- Order: the chicken yakitori, thigh and scallion skewers with ginger-plum, roast garlic and black peppercorn sauces. Stuart Melling (Gastronomic SLC, 2025):
Come for the sushi, stay for a few skewers.
4 - Order: the Katsumi 512 roll, shrimp and blistered shishito under torched A5 wagyu. Scheffler (Utah Stories, 2025)
loved
it.2 - Order: the Ahi Zen roll, bluefin marinated in agave soy and chili garlic oil with mango and crispy shallots. Scheffler (Utah Stories, 2025) found its texture and flavors
truly memorable.
2
What locals & experts say
- Ted Scheffler, Utah Stories (2025), on the room Hargett built:
easily one of the most beautiful restaurants in the state.
2
Good to know
- Price: in January 2025 the yakitori cost $15, the crudo $28, the premium rolls $28 to $37 and two pieces of aged toro $34. Scheffler:
It is definitely not an inexpensive place to eat.
2 - Age: 21 and over only.2
- Soy sauce: the house ages its tamari in whiskey barrels, which Scheffler found gave it
a very faint hint of whiskey.
Tamari is gluten-free.2 - When: every evening, as of December 2025. Call (385) 295-4077.3
- Where: 9 Exchange Place, in the Boston Building downtown.
Verdict
could-visit — Go to Aker for sushi from fish the kitchen dry-ages for days or weeks, and add a couple of yakitori skewers. Budget for it: two pieces of the aged toro cost $34 in 2025, and you have to be 21.