Jue Let

Jennifer Hwa Dobbertin named the bar for the Chinese cook who raised James Beard's palate, and she only went looking for him after her own Beard nomination. Liz Forsythe's cocktails pour until 2am, seven days.

Why go

Dobbertin got a James Beard nomination for Emerging Chef in 2023 and started reading about the man.1 What she found was Jue-Let, the Chinese-born cook who was her subject's mother's business partner, who gave the boy ivory chopsticks and and who was known for vol-au-vent with oysters, welsh rabbit and braised lamb curry. James Beard grew up with Jue-Let for the first 11 years of his life, Dobbertin told the San Antonio Report. James Beard's father was out of the picture for most of his life and he considered Jue-Let a father figure.1 The bar is two floors in the space Blue Box Bar used to hold, with mirrored walls, amber-tinted glass block, an open patio, a dining room and two private karaoke lounges. The terrazzo-topped bar, the vintage fixtures and the Murano-inspired lighting are Grace Boudewyns of Lake Flato Architects.1 Dobbertin brought Liz Forsythe onto the drinks and Alan Nelson onto the food, both out of Best Quality Daughter. I think Liz is the best in the city, she said.1

Order this / avoid

Order: the Mint Jue Let, the signature: a blend of bourbon, mizu green tea shochu, giffard noix de coco, mint, coconut-green-tea syrup and jasmine essence.1
Order: God Loves Figs, fig leaf infused rum with falernum, allspice, orgeat, lime and coconut water, which drew the raves at the soft opening.1
Order: the French onion dip, a decadent blend of silken tofu, cream cheese, Chinese chives, crispy shallots and kettle chips.1
Order: the crab Louie onigiri or the caviar service with Chinese tea eggs, both from Nelson's bar menu.1

What locals & experts say

Jennifer Hwa Dobbertin, on why the name: In James Beard's diaries and biography he talks highly of Jue-Let, and how his love for food came from him because he was such an accomplished chef.1
James Beard, in his final interview with Barbara Kafka, printed in the James Beard Celebration Cookbook: I wish, Beard told her, I had been born Chinese.1

Good to know

Open until 2am, seven days a week.1
Where it is: the Pearl, in the two-story space Blue Box Bar used to hold.1
There are two private karaoke lounges alongside the open patio and the dining room.1

Verdict

could-visit — Jennifer Hwa Dobbertin named the bar for the Chinese cook who taught James Beard to eat, which she only found out after her own Beard nomination sent her reading, and that is a sharper reason for a room to exist than most. Liz Forsythe built the cocktails and the specs are worth reading: fig-leaf rum with falernum and orgeat, or bourbon with green tea shochu and jasmine. The bar is new, so the rung rests on the team and the intent and stops there.