80/20 Eighty Twenty
The star this Charoenkrung kitchen won in the Michelin Guide Thailand 2020 has now survived seven guides and a complete change of chefs, from Napol "Joe" Jantraget and Saki Hoshino, the Montreal-trained pair who won it, to Andrew Martin, who had cooked here before them and took the pass back in June 2021.
Why go
The name once meant 80 percent Thai ingredients to 20 imported; per 50 Best Discovery the kitchen shifted to 100 per cent homegrown produce,
and Martin, one of the most exciting chefs in Thai gastronomy today,
builds the tasting menu from trips into the provinces: Stormy Sea came off a squid boat in the south, Gai Krajan out of Kaeng Krachan National Park. Time Out's 5/5 review says each dish packs a range of intense flavors that shock the palate.
Most of the starred tier trades heat for polish; this one keeps both.
Order this / avoid
- Order: the seasonal tasting, roughly 15 courses at B3,500++ when Time Out reviewed it, and trust the sweet end of the meal; the same review found the spice
balanced out by the subtle sweetness of two impressive desserts,
a holdover of the house's pastry pedigree from the Hoshino years. - Avoid: booking on the 2020-era press. Joe and Saki left in 2021; the star stayed, but the cooking is Martin's, and anyone chasing the founding duo should know before the deposit.
What locals & experts say
- Michelin Guide Thailand 2020: one star, new that year, awarded under Jantraget and Hoshino; held through the 2026 guide's one-star list.5
- Time Out Bangkok (May 2022, Arpiwach Supateerawanitt, 5/5):
Each dish packs a range of intense flavors that shock the palate.
3 - 50 Best Discovery: Martin is
one of the most exciting chefs in Thai gastronomy today.
4
Good to know
- Timing: dinner-led; at last verification Wednesday and Thursday were dinner only, with Friday to Sunday adding lunch. Confirm current days before booking.
- Booking: essential; phone 09-9118-2200 per Time Out.
- Getting there: 1052-1054 Charoenkrung Road in Bang Rak, a short ride from BTS Saphan Taksin and an easy pairing with the Talat Noi and Charoenkrung bar crawl.
Jeff's take (his words)
- Note: multiple recs; cutting edge
Verdict
should-visit — A Michelin star held across seven guides and a full chef changeover, on a menu that runs all-Thai produce through fermentation, fire, and spice levels a starred kitchen usually sands down. Time Out's 5/5 praises exactly that refusal to mute heat, and the Stormy Sea squid-mangosteen-chili plate is the kind of ingredient logic Jeff's 'cutting edge' note points at. It misses must-visit because the current era lacks a documented career dish and the record since 2022 is thin on critical detail.