Bistro Eleven Fifty Five
The onglet comes from Hannan's in County Down, aged in a Himalayan salt chamber, which is the clearest sign on the menu that Peter McKenna is cooking his Irish side and not just talking about it.
Why go
The Gannet ran twelve years at 1155 Argyle Street and closed on New Year's Eve. McKenna and his maitre d' Kevin Dow reopened the same room on 26 February 2026 with 52 covers, the old brickwork reclaimed onto the new walls, and a name taken straight off the door number (The Caterer). The supplier list survived the change: Greenheart Growers, St Brides Poultry, George Mewes cheese, Simpson Game and Coeur Sauvage mushrooms (Scotsman Food and Drink). What changed is the register. Dow's wine list runs Old World with staff recommendations instead of fixed pairings, there is a whisky room, and the kitchen sends whole cuts of aged beef and fish on the bone rather than plated tasting courses. MICHELIN added the restaurant to its guide about five months after opening.
Order this / avoid
- Order: the milk bread first. Cate Devine found the rolls "fluffy, light, sweet and with a salty soy crust" ref, and a soy glaze on an enriched dough is the kind of small technical decision that tells you who is running the section. Then Barra cockles with Cafe de Paris butter, or the salt-aged onglet with fries and chimichurri. The MICHELIN inspectors suggest starting "at the bar with a martini, Manhattan or, as you're in Scotland, a Rob Roy" ref.
- Avoid: turning up Sunday or Monday. The room is dark both days, and lunch runs Wednesday to Saturday only.
What locals & experts say
- Cate Devine (Bite Magazine, 18 March 2026), on the dish that carried her meal: the braised lamb, "a bowl of potato, carrot, turnip and the softest, tastiest cuts," was "the star of the show," and the Himalayan salt-aged ribeye came "meltingly pink inside." She read the whole exercise as one that "takes a hefty dollop of courage." ref
- MICHELIN Guide (added July 2026), on where it comes from: "this friendly bistro comes from the team behind The Gannet, which previously occupied this site," with the inspectors calling out "snacks (look out for oysters served multiple ways) and lightly glazed milk bread with whipped butter." Read through Glasgow Live, since the guide's own pages are unreachable to us. ref
- SLTN (Gordon Davidson, 4 Feb 2026), quoting McKenna on the change of gear: "Everything's going to be a bit more playful, a lot more warm." He also says the room will not be "the most expensive restaurant in the city either." ref
- Rosalind Erskine (The Scotsman Food and Drink, 25 Nov 2025) broke the plan under her own byline, with McKenna calling it "a natural evolution." ref
Good to know
- Timing: dinner Tuesday to Saturday from 5pm, lunch Wednesday to Saturday noon to 2.30pm. Closed Sunday and Monday, as posted by the venue in July 2026.
- Booking: reserve online. A private room seats up to 12 for a plated dinner or a shared banquet.
- Price: a two-course set menu ran at GBP 25 to Easter 2026. Whether it still runs is unconfirmed, so check when you book.
- Drinks: Old World wine list, a whisky room, and a bar built for classics.
- Hygiene: no FSA or FHIS record could be retrieved for 1155 Argyle Street under either trading name on 29 July 2026. That is a missing record rather than a bad one.
- Provenance: added by curation, not from Jeff's own list.
Verdict (Chef Jeff ladder)
should-visit — Peter McKenna shut The Gannet on New Year's Eve after twelve years and reopened the same address eight weeks later as a 52-cover bistro, reusing the brickwork. The cooking kept the supplier list and dropped the formality: Barra cockles under Cafe de Paris butter, salt-aged onglet from Hannan's in County Down, whole cuts of aged beef and fish on the bone. MICHELIN added it to the guide about five months in. It is a serious kitchen deliberately operating below its own ceiling, which is usually where the eating is best.