Al Ceppo
Al Ceppo grills its meat and fish in the dining room, on an open grill that faces a large table for eight in a library nook.
Why go
Nick Lander of JancisRobinson.com went in 2024 on the advice of the site's Italian-wine critic, Walter Speller. The doors open late for dinner, a sure sign of catering to locals only,
Lander wrote. He described the room filling up: When we walked in shortly after 8, two tables were already occupied, by Americans. By 9 pm the restaurant was full of Romans
(JancisRobinson.com).
Arcangelo Dandini, the chef behind L'Arcangelo and Supplizio, recommended it to Scatti di Gusto in 2016 for the atmosphere and the meat, grilled above all (Scatti di Gusto). Eleonora Baldwin of The American wrote in 2014 that some dishes betray their Marche-region roots
(The American).
Of the cooking, Lander wrote: Our food was fine, if unexceptional.
His rosemary-grilled veal sweetbreads with potato cream let him down: there was a noticeable absence of rosemary from the meat and cream from the potato and little effect of the grill on the meat which was disappointing.
Jancis Robinson, eating with him, was happier with her choices
(JancisRobinson.com).
Lander liked the wine list for its well-priced bottles from outside Italy: plenty from Burgundy, Germany and Bordeaux, and some recent arrivals from Slovenia. The sommelier warned him that in Slovenia they drink everything they make over there.
He and Jancis Robinson drank a 2019 Barbaresco Montestefano from Produttori del Barbaresco at 80 euros. After three courses the bill for two came to 250 euros (JancisRobinson.com).
Cristiana Lauro of Scatti di Gusto, a friend of the owners who lives alone and eats out for work, wrote in 2011: since I discovered I could settle in the salon, on a comfortable sofa, completely informal, as if I were at home, I go even more gladly
(Scatti di Gusto).
Order this / avoid
- Order: the porcini as a starter. Nick Lander (2024), on Jancis Robinson's choice:
succulent porcini (listed as a main course but recommended as a starter).
1 - Order: the bucatini all'amatriciana. Nick Lander (2024), on what Jancis Robinson had next:
bucatini amatriciana with crunchy guanciale.
1 - Order: the guanciola. Eleonora Baldwin (2014):
the terrific guanciola, low-temperature cooked beef cheek served with orange-flavored braised radicchio and glazed shallots.
4 - Avoid: the rosemary-grilled veal sweetbreads with potato cream, Nick Lander's disappointment in 2024.1
What locals & experts say
- Gambero Rosso (2025): 78 points, and
a historic Parioli name, trading since 1968.
2
Good to know
- Where: Via Panama 2, in the residential streets of Parioli near the Villa Borghese gardens.1
- When: In January 2025 Turismo Roma had it shut for Monday lunch and, in summer, for Saturday lunch.7
- Booking: call +39 06 841 9696.3
- Price: about 80 euros a head before wine, by Turismo Roma's average in January 2025.7
Verdict
could-visit — Book a late dinner among the Parioli regulars for the grill and a fairly priced bottle, and order the porcini and the amatriciana over the sweetbreads. Two people with a good Barbaresco paid 250 euros in 2024.