Felice a Testaccio
Felice finishes the cacio e pepe at your table.
Why go
The pasta arrives unfinished. Time Out: Cacio e pepe is Felice a Testaccio's signature dish; this tangle of spaghetti, melted cheese and black pepper comes freshly tossed at the table for you
(Time Out).
Time Out calls Testaccio widely considered the best neighbourhood for Roman cuisine
1 and this room its unrivalled star. Gambero Rosso walked the same streets in 2025 and was cooler about it, naming Felice as one of two trattorias everybody knows on via Mastro Giorgio rather than the one (Gambero Rosso).
Order this / avoid
- Order: the cacio e pepe, and watch it finished. Time Out's own tip is the same:
Order the cacio e pepe – it's finished tableside and lives up to the hype.
1 - Avoid: a Sunday. The kitchen is shut.
What locals & experts say
- Time Out Rome (Livia Hengel):
Testaccio is widely considered the best neighbourhood for Roman cuisine, and this eatery is its unrivalled star.
1 - Gambero Rosso, the Testaccio guide (2025):
From here on it is all a swarm of trattorias, the best known being Felice and the Franschetta on via Mastro Giorgio.
2
Good to know
- Price: Time Out put a meal at around 30 to 40 euros a head without drinks in May 2025.
- Booking: essential.
- Where: Via Mastro Giorgio 29, in Testaccio.
- Reviews: I have not found a scored review of this kitchen, and Scatti di Gusto's Rome 38 does not carry it.
Verdict
should-visit — Time Out calls Testaccio the best quarter in Rome for Roman cooking and this room its unrivalled star, and the reason to book is a pasta the waiter finishes in front of you. Gambero Rosso walked the same street in 2025 and named it one of the two everybody knows. No critic has published a verdict, and what holds the tier up is the dish rather than the record: a tableside toss is a thing to watch and a reason to book.