Il Convivio Troiani
Angelo Troiani cooks one batch of guanciale down into his amatriciana sauce and lifts it out, then fries a second batch crisp for the top of each plate.
Why go
Angelo Troiani and his brothers Massimo and Giuseppe came to Rome from the Marche and opened Il Convivio on Via dell'Orso in 1990. MICHELIN gave them a star there in 1993. In 1999 they moved to a palazzo under an old tower on Vicolo dei Soldati (Reporter Gourmet, 2023). Angelo cooks, Giuseppe runs the room and Massimo keeps the cellar. The star holds in the 2026 guide, whose inspector calls the restaurant a benchmark in Roman dining
(MICHELIN Guide, 2025).
Gambero Rosso credited the brothers in 2021 with taking amatriciana, Rome's pasta of guanciale, tomato and pecorino, into fine dining and giving it new rules. I have always used vinegar, which is more aromatic, and not wine,
Troiani told the magazine. It is very important for amatriciana: it must have aroma and primary scents.
He now makes his own aged red-wine vinegar in small casks. He left the black-rind pecorino romano for a small organic cheese because I had trouble finding a product that was not too salty
(Gambero Rosso, 2021). Vincenzo Pagano of Scatti di Gusto liked Troiani's version partly for the crisp guanciale that has crowned the pasta since 1995,
and reported that Massimo Bottura rates Troiani the best at the dish (Scatti di Gusto, 2015). MICHELIN dates the dish on the menu to 1996. It cost 28 euros à la carte in 2018 (Scatti di Gusto, 2018).
Beyond the amatriciana, the kitchen cooks two tasting menus that can be shortened, one of them wholly vegetable. Troiani told Marco Castaldi of Reporter Gourmet in 2023 that since Covid he cooks only what I like and enjoy cooking.
Castaldi called Due fave per un piccione probably the best dish
of the meal: pigeon as a seared breast and leg with fava cream, a carpaccio with cherries, a liver pâté and tiny tortelli filled with pigeon consommé (Reporter Gourmet, 2023). For dessert the kitchen sent Carbonara ah ah ah ah, blown rigatoni with cream and robiola, coconut in place of pecorino, candied orange for the guanciale and cocoa bean for the pepper. In 2023 the nine-course menu cost 160 euros, and five or seven courses chosen from it cost 120 or 135 (Reporter Gourmet, 2023).
Massimo's list runs to some 3,600 labels with verticals back to the 1990s, and several of the rarities come by the glass through a Coravin (MICHELIN Guide, 2025).
Order this / avoid
- Order: the Amatriciana dei Troiani, for Vincenzo Pagano (Scatti di Gusto, 2015).4
- Order: Due fave per un piccione,
impeccable from a technical perspective
for Marco Castaldi (Reporter Gourmet, 2023).3 - Order: Carbonara ah ah ah ah,
a masterpiece of imagination, technique, and flavor balance
for Castaldi (2023).3 - Drink: Casal Pilozzo's 1996 Il Colle Gaio, a Lazio Malvasia, if it is still on the list. Castaldi found it
surprising, long-lasting, and complex
(2023).3
What locals & experts say
- Arcangelo Dandini, chef of L'Arcangelo (Scatti di Gusto, 2016):
Perhaps the first to cross-pollinate Roman cooking, Angelo Troiani then found an unmistakable line, and in that line made of innovation you can be sure of always finding tradition again.
5 - Massimo Troiani to Reporter Gourmet (2023):
You have to create the trend, not follow it.
3
Good to know
- Timing: dinner only, Monday to Saturday. Shut Sunday.
- Booking: book online through the restaurant's site or call +39 06 686 9432.
- Where: Vicolo dei Soldati 31, in the Ponte quarter behind Piazza Navona.
Verdict
should-visit — Book a dinner for the amatriciana Angelo Troiani has made with vinegar and twice the guanciale since the mid-1990s, and for the pigeon the tasting menu serves several ways. The star has held since 1993. Expect 120 to 160 euros before wine at 2023 prices, and no Sunday.