Mazzo
Francesca Barreca and Marco Baccannelli reopened Mazzo in San Lorenzo after five years shut.
Why go
Eater has the shape of the return: Culinary power couple Francesca Barreca and Marco Baccannelli reopened their landmark restaurant Mazzo after a five year hiatus, and this time around, a relatively central location in San Lorenzo makes it considerably more accessible to many residents. The dining room has also grown from a single 12-seat communal table to full-fledged restaurant seating complete with a massive porthole peering into the brightly lit kitchen
(Eater). Two dishes to take: the fried tripe, and wagon wheels in an oniony braised beef sauce.
The older writing is about the room that closed. Dissapore, in 2015, described a single table shared with strangers, ten covers in all, and rated the broccolo romanesco cutlets; Scatti di Gusto put it thirty-fourth in Rome in 2016. The Centocelle room is shut.
Order this / avoid
- Order: the fried tripe, then the wagon wheels. Eater names both.1
- Avoid: the old address. The Centocelle room is shut and the new one is in San Lorenzo.
What locals & experts say
- Katie Parla: the room
has returned to the fold and the vibes and food are 10/10
. She sells paid walking tours in Rome.2 - Dissapore (2015), on the room that closed:
The single-table micro-room, shared with the other guests, about ten covers in all, is much liked by Romans who make the trip out to Centocelle, as are the unusual dishes that come off, the broccolo romanesco cutlets.
3
Good to know
- Where: San Lorenzo. No source I have read prints a street for the new room.
- Price: Eater bands the meal at three of four.
Verdict
should-visit — A five-year silence and then a bigger room, with a porthole cut into the kitchen wall so the dining room can watch. The order is offal and a pasta shape nobody else in this city is using. Katie Parla says the food is ten out of ten. It stops short of must-visit because Dissapore and Scatti di Gusto describe the room that closed, and because no street address for the new one exists in anything I have read.