Haawm
Dylan Eitharong ran the Bangrak Thai Street Kitchen pop-up in Orlando, moved to Bangkok in 2019 on citizenship claimed through his Thai father, and turned his aunt's house on Soi On Nut 25 into Haawm, a supper club with one communal table and a months-long Instagram waitlist. The name reads "smells good" in Thai and lands as "home" in English.
Why go
Eitharong is self-taught, learned to read Thai after arriving, and builds menus from historical recipes, older cookbooks, and 1970s and 80s Thai women's magazines (Roads & Kingdoms, Roadbook). His stated thesis: I want every bite you take to be loud,
which in practice means salt, smoke, and texture pushed harder than restaurant-polite Thai. What began as Covid-era pop-ups now seats about 20 at a single antique table, seven courses served family style, with Eitharong as chef, host, and waiter. He cites Hanuman Aspler and David Thompson as influences, and the food reads that way, regional and archival rather than greatest-hits.
Order this / avoid
- Order: the menu is a set seven-course sharing spread that changes constantly, so you eat what he is researching that week. Dishes BK Magazine logged include Hat Yai-style fried chicken with crispy turmeric sticky rice, a karee curry of charred prawns and cucumber, and a green mango starter where
the interplay between the fish sauce, chilis, and sour citrus makes this a simple but flavourful dish with an eye-wateringly sour kick.
- Avoid: showing up without a booking. There is one table and a months-long waitlist, so DM early and take a cancellation if offered. No dish substitutions; it is a prix fixe at a shared table.
What locals & experts say
- BK Magazine:
The interplay between the fish sauce, chilis, and sour citrus makes this a simple but flavourful dish with an eye-wateringly sour kick.
1 - Fiona Beckett (first-timer's guide to Bangkok):
a supper club by way of celestial revelation.
4 - Roads & Kingdoms (2023): Eitharong on his cooking:
I want every bite you take to be loud.
2
Good to know
- Timing: dinner only, a few nights a week; current dates post to Instagram, so confirm there.
- Booking: essential, by DM to @haawmbkk; expect a wait measured in months, with cancellations your realistic shot on shorter notice.
- Price: B3,080 a head when BK Magazine reviewed it in 2022; check the current figure when you book.
- Getting there: Suan Luang, off Soi On Nut 25, a taxi ride east of central Sukhumvit.
Jeff's take (his words)
- Note: "Super special supper club. Booked via Instagram."
Verdict
should-visit — A self-taught Thai-American cooking research-driven, out-of-print Thai food at one table in his family's house, with the chef as host and waiter. The format exists nowhere else in Bangkok and the food draws real critical praise, but there is no marquee award and the menu changes weekly, so the rung rests on craft and singularity rather than a proven career dish.