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Edinburgh.

What Edinburgh is

The sea comes first here, and the kitchens worth booking name the water it came out of. Dulse pours you a glass downstairs and sends up Shetland mussels and Skye langoustines. The Fishmarket stands on the pier at Newhaven where boats have landed for 500 years, builds its scampi on creeled langoustine tails from Tobermory, and hand-dives its scallops off Mull.

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280 places

Rooms you can walk into, ranked the way I would send you.

Key: what the badges mean

★ Michelin star · Bib Bib Gourmand · Green ★ Michelin Green Star · Michelin in the Michelin guide, no distinction · J Jeff's own note · Jeff ★★★★☆ 2019 his own rating out of five, and the year he gave it · new the venue itself opened recently · just added recently added to Jeff's list, whatever its age · 2◆ independent chef/industry recommendations · ! hygiene caution in force · ? no current public hygiene record, not a caution · keep walking Jeff has been and would walk past it · the line under a name says when to go: Destination (plan around it) / Solid (the dependable send) / Listed (on the radar). Under it, where the entry states one: how the room takes bookings, and the date I last checked the entry.

Go here first.

Where I'd actually send you first: the rooms I'd put a visitor in on night one, in town rather than an hour down the highway, spread so six cards are six different answers. Producers, markets and the rest of the city are below.

The PalmerstonMichelin

Destination · Restaurant · West End · $$$

book ahead

The Good Food Guide: "Lloyd Morse's kitchen takes a resolutely nose-to-tail approach, showcasing his deep love of Italian and French cuisine."

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TIMBERYARD★

Destination · Restaurant · Tollcross · $$$$

booking essential

Behind a big red door on Lady Lawson Street, the kitchen works from a short list of Scottish produce and lets it carry the plate, which is harder than it sounds and is what the Michelin inspector singles out.

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Heron★

Destination · Restaurant · Leith · $$$$

booking essential

The Good Food Guide calls the canapes flawless: a nori cup of langoustine with tart plum and pressed cucumber, and a croustade of gribiche with Arbroath smokie.

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Panda & Sons

Destination · Bar · New Town · $$

booking essential

The current menu, Transcend, is sixteen drinks built over five years of freezer work, and its first chapter freezes the water out of a spirit and swaps the ice for another flavor.

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MossMichelin

Solid · Restaurant · Stockbridge · $$$

book ahead

The miso in this kitchen has a barley base, because barley is what grows on the Angus farm that supplies the restaurant.

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eòrna restaurantMichelin

Solid · Restaurant · Stockbridge · $$$$

booking essential

Two people are the entire payroll, Brian Grigor cooking every course and Glen Montgomery pouring every glass and hosting the room.

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New & next.

DogstarMichelinnew

Solid · Restaurant · Leith · $$$

book ahead

James Murray earned a Michelin star working at Timberyard, then took a pub that had stood empty five years and put twenty-six seats in it.

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Nishikijust added

Solid · Sake bar · West End · $$

book ahead

A Japanese breakfast service, 9am to 11.30am, in a city that has almost none.

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The Royal Dick Pubjust added?

Listed · Pub · Southside · $$

walk-in

The gin is piped in from the distillery across the courtyard, and the brewery is directly behind the bar.

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Vessel

Listed · Bar · New Town · $$

walk-in

Pilot brewed in Leith for twelve years before opening a bar, and when they did they put it in the New Town.

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Spry WinesMichelin

Solid · Wine bar · Edinburgh · $$$

book ahead

Star Wine List made Spry a Silver Star in its UK 2026 results, on a list otherwise thick with London.

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Somewhere tonight.

One tap hides everything shut today and everything that needs a booking, then sorts the rest by how close it is to you. I don’t publish opening hours, because they go stale faster than anyone can check them. Check the door before you go.

For the night you're planning.

A table for eight, a quick lunch, something still cooking after eleven: tap the one you need and it opens the rooms that do it. Every time below shows the date it was last checked, so look at that date before you plan an evening around one.

The nights people ask me about most.

4 questions readers keep putting to me about eating here, answered with the rooms I would send you to and the reason each one fits. Every price and time below comes off the venue’s own page with the date it was read on it, so confirm before you plan a night on one.

My parents are visiting and I want to feed them properly.

Café St Honoré is the first booking I make for a night like this. Its Cafe Classics menu runs £22, £30 and £38 for one, two and three courses at any hour of service, and the kitchen buys whole sides of venison, half a pig and legs of beef, which is where the cooking comes from. Read the diary before you promise a date, because the room trades on Monday, closes Tuesday and Wednesday, and runs its one unbroken service on Sunday from noon into the early evening. Say when you book if stairs are a problem, since the venue states that some tables sit down a small flight and that it cannot promise you a particular one.

Stockbridge Eating House suits four people who want to hear each other. The room seats eighteen, cooks hare and devilled mussels, prices starters at £14 and lamb chops at £29, and builds two of its mains for two people to share. Over in Leith, The Little Chartroom takes the same evening up a level: Mark Donald, who holds two MICHELIN stars at Glenturret Lalique, eats there and gives one ordering instruction, Roberta is very good with game, so I'd go for the game. Book it, because nobody publishes a menu price for that room and Donald's own advice is that you probably will not get in on spec.

When they want the grand Edinburgh room, Café Royal has held its corner since 1826. Reserve the seated Oyster Bar through the back on Harden's advice, since the front bar takes walk-ins and tour companies block-book it most months. Three house rules decide who comes with you: children of five and over are welcome in the restaurant, nobody under 18 is admitted to the bar at all, and the venue states that it has no accessible toilets.

Eight of us want one table in August, and we do not all eat the same things.

Take a mixed table of eight to a food hall, where everyone orders from a different counter and nobody negotiates a menu. Bonnie & Wild's Scottish Marketplace in the St James Quarter runs nine kitchens and about 400 seats, from Gary Maclean's seafood counter to Sri Lankan curry and vegan, and the venue's own line is No need to book, even for large groups. One current trader, Chooks, holds an Improvement Required from March 2024, and the page says so.

The Pitt Market is the same answer with an indoor hall and a children's area, Thursday to Sunday in Granton. Email the market to hold space for a party over eight, walk in free from the Granton Promenade, and eat across Nepalese, Lebanese and Japanese-Scottish stalls, with Lazeez fully halal. Read the hygiene line on that page first: the two registered food traders hold a Pass and the bar operation holds an Improvement Required from May 2025. In August, Assembly George Square Gardens is the walk-up food-truck version, serving into the small hours most nights with no booking taken or needed.

If you want one table with one kitchen, two rooms price a group in advance. The Radhuni in Loanhead runs banquets from six people at £35.95 a head in a dedicated group room, seats twelve without a negotiation, and its vegetarian mains are £13.95, so the two people at your table who eat no meat order off the same card as everyone else. Call ahead, because the banquets are pre-ordered. The Magnum pre-orders a fixed-price three-course menu for parties of eight and up, which few New Town rooms will do, and Memed takes parties from one to twenty on its own form with a £9.50 plate for a child.

David Bann is the booking when someone at the table eats no meat, because the whole menu has been meat-free since 2002 and the group set starts at six covers at £26.50 for two courses. Harden's diners put the case better than the label does: I go there because the food's delicious and the service lovely, not because it's vegetarian.

The kids eat at 5.30 and we have a buggy with us.

The pub kitchens are what serve at half five in this city, and several of them are good. The Ox in Broughton runs its kitchen from noon into the late evening every day and half an hour longer on Friday and Saturday, takes its last booking as the kitchen closes, welcomes children for an hour beyond that and keeps biscuits for the dog; its Sunday roasts are £20 to £25. The Doric serves food all day in the Old Town, moves the evening service up to the first floor, prints a children's menu and, on CAMRA's February 2025 survey, admits children downstairs until early evening and in the first-floor restaurant late into the night. That menu marks its vegetarian, vegan and non-gluten-containing dishes and the kitchen will alter some of them on request, so one card covers a table with mixed diets at it.

Three more rooms open early enough to matter. Roseleaf in Leith trades from ten in the morning seven days a week and stops the kitchen in the late evening, with the chunky Cullen skink at £10.95. The Radhuni starts its evening service in the late afternoon on Friday and Saturday and runs straight through from early afternoon on Sunday, and it keeps a family zone inside a 120-cover room. The Magnum admits children late into the evening, has a garden with tables, and holds a two-course table d'hôte at £25 for anyone seated before the dinner rush, Monday to Saturday, so an early sitting catches the cheap end of the card.

The small rooms say plainly that they cannot take a buggy, and that saves you a phone call. LeftField publishes the whole answer on its reservations page: children at lunch only, no children's menu, no highchair and nowhere to park a buggy. Phil White cooks 24 covers alone in that kitchen, and the same arithmetic governs the other twenty-seat rooms on this list. All of this comes off the venues' own published hours, which move, so call before you build an evening on one.

Where do I eat really well without spending much?

Gaby Soutar wrote in The Scotsman that a main course under twenty pounds is close to impossible to find here, and she wrote it about Barry Fish on the Shore, her best lunch of 2025, where the house-smoked haddock kedgeree and the fishcakes are both £16. That is the line the rooms below sit under.

The counters stretch the money furthest. Oink sells hog roast rolls in single figures and a 250g at £11.95, from late morning until the pork runs out. Lannan Bakery charged £3 for a cardamom bun and £3.60 for a pain au raisin when anybody last printed a figure, in 2023, and it publishes a way past the queue: orders open weekly on the bakery's own website up to a week ahead and are collected at the Pantry, which has its own entrance on Hamilton Place and sells no pastries over its counter. Archipelago Bakery keeps a vegan soup on every day beside dairy-free and vegan cakes, and its own 2022 copy prices soup with bread at £5.50 and a scone at £2.60, which you should treat as last known.

The chippies hold the tenner. The Fishmarket at Newhaven sold its fish supper at £10 to £12 across three sizes in 2018, and Tom Kitchin named it when Sky News asked where a chef eats well for under £40; the counter queues separately from the dining room, so decide which one you are joining before you set off. The Chippy by Spencer opened its mixed fish supper at £13 and a seaweed-wrapped aubergine supper at £6.50 for the vegan at the table, and both figures are five years old now. L'Alba D'Oro will fry your fish alla Romana with sage and onions, which no other counter here offers.

Four kitchens sell their own cooking at lunch for £25 or less. Montrose runs three courses at £25 over a short Friday-to-Sunday lunch, set menu only, against about £80 upstairs at night. NADAIR in Marchmont did two courses at £25 and three at £30 at weekend lunch when Harden's and Scottish Field printed it in autumn 2024, against £65 a head for five courses at dinner. The Magnum holds a two-course table d'hôte at £25 before the dinner rush, Monday to Saturday. David Bann prices lunch at £24.50 for two courses and £31 for three, Sunday to Friday, and every dish on it is meat-free.

The student quarter's best cheap table is Mara's Picklery in Marchmont. Murray Chalmers ate his way across it in September 2024 and the bill came to £40 for two including a kombucha, with the Hokkaido pumpkin at £10 that he called the best £10 you will spend in a restaurant all year. Book, because four tables hold twenty-two covers, and note that it closes Monday and Tuesday.

Skua is the cheap one that comes with a warning. Skua in Stockbridge holds a MICHELIN Bib Gourmand and priced every plate on the reviewed menu between £6 and £10, with its only dessert at £3. The premises also holds an Improvement Required from an inspection on 27 May 2026, the failing grade of the Scottish scheme, and ten weeks makes that current information. Both facts stand, and you should book with both of them in front of you.

I have one splurge dinner in Edinburgh and five starred rooms to pick from. What is the actual difference between Kitchin, Wishart, Timberyard, Heron and LYLA?

Timberyard and LYLA decide your dinner for you, and The Kitchin and Heron still hand you a carte. Timberyard writes one set menu a week around the Scottish produce that arrived for it. LYLA is the smallest and strictest of the five: ten courses, ten tables, 28 covers, and it will not seat a party bigger than four. Kitchin's £69 lunch buys the same kitchen as its £130 dinner, Restaurant Martin Wishart's £95 Market Menu sits against a £145 tasting, and Timberyard and Heron publish no price at all. Kitchin shuts Monday, Timberyard and Heron and LYLA shut Monday and Tuesday, and Wishart publishes no closed day, so the night you have free may pick the room for you. Prices below are Harden's 2026 figures except LYLA's, which come off a March 2024 visit.

  • The KitchinLeithJeff's pick

    You order for yourself here, and the Good Food Guide went from calling the cooking predictable to finding renewed energy in it on one lunch.

  • Martin Wishart has cooked modern French on the Shore since 2001, and this is the only one of the five with no published closed day.

  • TIMBERYARDTollcrossJeff's pick

    It runs one set menu a week, took a Green Star in 2026, and publishes no price.

  • HeronLeith

    It has held a MICHELIN star since 2023, Sam Yorke has led the kitchen since he and Tomas Gormley parted ways, and nobody publishes a price.

  • LYLABroughtonJeff's pick

    Ten courses go to 28 seats, and a party of four is the ceiling.

What you eat

The Kitchin.
You order three courses off a carte, and a surprise tasting menu runs alongside it.
Restaurant Martin Wishart.
At dinner you choose between the Market Menu and the six-course tasting, and lunch is a shorter carte.
TIMBERYARD.
The kitchen writes one set menu a week around the Scottish produce that turned up for it, so you eat what arrived. Anna Sebelova's drinks list won the Good Food Guide's Drinks List of the Year in 2025, jointly with Montrose.
Heron.
It runs a carte alongside two tasting menus that change with the season, per Time Out's February 2026 update.
LYLA.
Dinner is ten courses. Lunch is five, and it runs on Fridays and Saturdays only. Dinner opens upstairs with a champagne trolley and the snacks, then moves down to the dining room.

What it costs

The Kitchin.
Harden's 2026 figures put three courses at £69 at lunch against £130 at dinner, and the tasting menu at £165.
Restaurant Martin Wishart.
Harden's 2026 figures put the Market Menu at £95 against £145 for the six-course tasting.
TIMBERYARD.
Nobody publishes a figure, so ask what the week's menu costs when you book.
Heron.
Heron publishes no prices, so ask what dinner runs when you book.
LYLA.
In March 2024 the ten courses ran £165 and the five-course lunch £65, with a £45 wine pairing and a £25 soft pairing. Those are 2024 figures, so confirm them.

The room

The Kitchin.
Tom and Michaela Kitchin have run a converted whisky warehouse on Commercial Street since 2006, with a glazed wall onto the kitchen and Lachlan Archibald cooking behind it.
Restaurant Martin Wishart.
The room is quiet and panelled, a few doors along the Shore from The Kitchin, and the Good Food Guide's one complaint is service its readers say lacks the usual panache. Harden's diners say the opposite.
TIMBERYARD.
The room is a warehouse behind a big red door on Lady Lawson Street, with a stove to sit by in winter and a walled courtyard in summer.
Heron.
It is a high-ceilinged room on the Water of Leith looking at the cranes of the old port, and the Good Food Guide singles out service that drops the formality without dropping the knowledge.
LYLA.
Ten tables and 28 covers fill the ground floor of Paul Kitching's 21212 on Royal Terrace, the party cap is four, and there is no carte to fall back on.

When it trades

The Kitchin.
It shuts on Monday, and the £69 three-course lunch is the cheap way in on the days it opens.
Restaurant Martin Wishart.
I have no closed day for this room, so call before you plan a Monday round it. The Kitchin shuts Monday, and Timberyard, Heron and LYLA shut Monday and Tuesday.
TIMBERYARD.
It shuts Monday and Tuesday, serves dinner Wednesday to Saturday, and runs lunch on Friday and Saturday only.
Heron.
Time Out had it Wednesday to Friday for dinner only and both weekend days for lunch and dinner, closed Monday and Tuesday, as at February 2026.
LYLA.
It shuts Monday and Tuesday, and the five-course lunch runs Fridays and Saturdays only.

Getting a table

The Kitchin.
Book ahead, because Harden's diners describe a fully booked room as the normal state.
Restaurant Martin Wishart.
Book ahead. Try this one for a Monday, because The Kitchin, Timberyard, Heron and LYLA all shut at the top of the week.
TIMBERYARD.
Book weeks out for an August table.
Heron.
Book ahead. Turning up without a booking is how people miss this one.
LYLA.
Book ahead, and go direct through the restaurant's site, because Stuart Ralston's team keeps its own book.

My three, and this is my palate rather than anybody's printed review: Timberyard, The Kitchin and LYLA. Timberyard has held its star since 2023 and took a Green Star in 2026, and a menu rewritten every week around what the growers sent is what I want at this price. Book The Kitchin at lunch: £69 buys the same kitchen that charges £130 after dark. Save LYLA for the night that has to be an occasion, at ten courses and 28 covers with a party of four as the ceiling. Restaurant Martin Wishart and Heron are the next two I would book. The only reservation any critic has printed about these five is the Good Food Guide's on The Kitchin: it had begun to find the cooking somewhat predictable (if not complacent), and then a recent lunch showed a renewed sense of energy and vitality.

Jeff's call · Aug 2026

Read as of Aug 2026 — every price moves, so confirm before you book

the five starred rooms on their own page →

What Edinburgh is known for.

The plates, the room formats and the cooking the city owns, each with the rooms on my list that deliver it.

The cheap pint in an old room

Athletic Arms in Gorgie pours a rotating 42 malts at GBP 2.50 for a Scots measure and sells butcher's pies at three, in a room nobody gutted.

Dreadnought Leith · The Stockbridge Tap · Jolly Judge +19

Whisky bars

The Society keeps two houses, and anyone over 18 can walk into Queen Street for the range while the Vaults in Leith is the members' door a local uses.

Tipsy Midgie Whisky Bar · The Port of Leith Distillery · The Mother Superior +13

One set menu, built on Scottish produce

Six kitchens on this card hold a Michelin Star, and three of them stand within a few streets of each other in Leith.

TIMBERYARD · Heron · LYLA +9

My routes through Edinburgh.

Each one runs in the order I would walk it, and every stop carries the reason it is on the route.

Coffee in Edinburghgood any time

Six rooms in this city roast the coffee they pour, and a Cornish roastery twenty years old took over the address the whole scene was argued in.

read it →

Six parts of this city hold enough cooking to plan a day around, and they do different jobs.

read it →

Who is behind the picks.

The chefs who named these rooms, and the critics whose published reviews carry the Edinburgh entries. Every name has a page and a count.

Tom Kitchin

Chef · 6 picks

Scottish produce cooked in a French technical idiom, across a MICHELIN-starred flagship and a set of casual Edinburgh rooms.

Kitchin holds a MICHELIN Star at The Kitchin in Leith and was the youngest chef in the world to win one, at 29.

who they are →

Imran Rahman-Jones

Critic · 9 picks

Edinburgh pubs. Beer, cask, and what a room is actually like to drink in.

Imran Rahman-Jones is a freelance journalist living in Edinburgh who publishes a fortnightly pub review under his own name, states outright that "Not all my reviews are positive", and runs the…

who they are →

Michele Mariotti

Bartender · 3 picks

Edinburgh and Scottish hotel bars.

Michele Mariotti is head of bars at Gleneagles and the most-quoted voice in the Scotsman's Festival bars piece, with three separate Edinburgh picks given in his own words.

who they are →

The makers behind it.

The mills, farms, butchers and bakers the kitchens buy from, and the rooms on the list that sell or cook with them.

Dried seaweed is the cheapest good thing to take home from a Scottish market, and two of them earn the space in a bag.

A Scottish maker ages vinegar in a cask that held Highland Park. Vinegar takes on whatever the wood held before it.

How Edinburgh actually eats.

How people here actually eat, which is the part of a city you learn by living in it.

Where the trade eats

how it is eaten

Ask an Edinburgh cook where they eat and half the answers are errands.

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The Glorious Twelfth

how it is eaten

Red grouse shooting opens on 12 August, the season closes on 10 December, and the birds reach Edinburgh kitchens within days of the first drives.

read it →

The National Library of Scotland keeps the recipe books Scottish households actually cooked from, including a countess's from the 1680s and a pastry book from 1734, and anybody can read them.

read it →
Open the map · 193 pins →

The dependable sends

Good cooking needs no occasion, and these are the ones I hand out on a normal Tuesday. 73 here.

Tipsy Midgie Whisky Bar

Whisky bar · Edinburgh · $$

book ahead

Colin Hinds cooked for thirty years, then stage 4 throat and neck cancer took the job away, and he planned this bar from a chemotherapy chair.

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LYLA★

Restaurant · New Town · $$$$

booking essential

In October 2024 Mark Donald, who cooks at two Michelin stars, ate here and said he would be surprised if Stuart Ralston did not get a star soon; the Star arrived at the 2025 ceremony.

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ArdfernBib

Restaurant · Leith · $$

book ahead

Roberta Hall-McCarron's second Leith room cooks fourteen hours a day, seven days a week, which almost nothing at Bib Gourmand level does.

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SkuaBib!

Restaurant · Edinburgh · $$

book ahead

The only dessert is three pounds, in a room holding a Michelin Bib Gourmand.

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The Scran and ScallieBib

Pub · Edinburgh · $$$

book ahead

The Good Food Guide calls the house steak pie "a stonker" and Harden's diners say they "would go back just for that steak pie!"

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Dreadnought Leith

Cask ale and cider pub · Leith · $

walk-in

Four cask lines, and the branch that surveyed the bar in February 2026 found no regular beer on any of them.

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On my list

These are on my list; I haven't been yet. 196 here.

Black Ivy?

Bar · Marchmont · $$$

book ahead

The Scottish Bar & Pub Awards named the heated, awning-covered terrace over Bruntsfield Links the best outdoor area in Scotland in 2023, then again in 2024.

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Pierinos

Fish and chips · Leith · $

walk-in

Perino and Lucia Crolla opened this counter in 1983 as The Tally Tower Fish & Chicken Bar, named for the Martello tower in Leith Docks, and renamed it after the first refit in the early nineties.

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Lucky YuMichelin

Restaurant · New Town · $$

book ahead

Michelin added this room in an April 2026 monthly round rather than at the ceremony, so it is in the 2026 guide without appearing in the guide's February roster.

Chennai's Marinajust added!

Restaurant · Southside · $

walk-in

Peter Simpson of The Skinny read the menu's chilli marking as a warning, and when this kitchen says two chillies it means two chillies.

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Old Pal Bar and Kitchen!

Cocktail bar · West End · $$

book ahead

Named for a cocktail, and it has taken the city's Best Restaurant Bar title in both years it has been open.

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St Johns Curry Club

Indian · Edinburgh · $

walk-in

The Asian Catering Federation named this Corstorphine delivery counter among Scotland's best Asian takeaways in 2022 and again in 2023.

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Around Edinburgh

23 open outside Edinburgh

The East Lothian coast9 open

The coast road east: lobster on the harbour wall at North Berwick, a bakery and a roastery on the same street, with Gullane and Whitekirk on the way.

Stirling and the carse7 open

Under the castle rock, then out into the carse: Kippen, Blair Drummond and the distillery at Doune.

Fife and Kinross5 open

Over the bridge and up: a chip shop on the Thornton road, a pub at Hillend, and rooms around Loch Leven.

West Lothian1 open

Linlithgow, twenty minutes west on the Glasgow line, with the loch and the palace behind the High Street.

Midlothian1 open

South past Dalkeith, where the Sun Inn stands on the old Lothian Bridge.

Every room out here is on the Edinburgh list and in the map.

Around Edinburgh7 open

East Lothian and Midlothian outside the city: the coast at Longniddry Bents, Prestonpans and Tranent, and Dalkeith to the south.

These rooms sit on the Scotland beyond the cities list.