Hong Kong.

Bourdain ate at the Tai Po shop, which closed in May 2018. Go to Yat Lok on Stanley Street in Central, which a younger brother of the Tai Po chef has run since 2011. Bernice Chan reported in the South China Morning Post in 2018: Some roast goose connoisseurs believe it's not as good as the Tai Po restaurant was, but there isn't much choice now. Order the goose by the quarter, best enjoyed with a bowl of lai fun noodles in clear broth with a drizzle of goose fat, in the MICHELIN inspectors' words. The leg is the dearest cut. Enzo Cortes had it over rice in March 2025: It's so succulent that every time I chew it, it bursts with juices! Char siu and roast goose over dry noodles cost HK$84 in June 2023. Arrive five to ten minutes before opening, share a table, order fast and pay in cash or with an Octopus card.

For goose at a booked Cantonese table, go to Duddell's on Duddell Street. Its roast goose pie came in with the 2025 refit, and Janice Leung Hayes of Eater wrote: Don't miss the new creations like the roast goose pie, with its irresistibly buttery crust.

Walk to Mak's Noodle at 77 Wellington Street in Central. Mak King-hung started it as a street stall in Central in 1968, and the company still makes its own noodles and wonton skins. Jess Basser Sanders wrote in The Infatuation in 2016 that at this shop the service might be grumpy, but you can happily slurp through a bowl (or two) with both tourists and locals. Mak's serves the noodles in a small bowl, the way they came when, Jeremy Li of the company says, they were a rich person's snack between meals. Order the shrimp wonton and beef brisket noodles.

Mak Man Kee in Jordan belongs to a cousin's family. Mak An Kee on Wing Kut Street and Tsim Chai Kee on Wellington Street are separate businesses. Mak's opens every day from late morning into the evening and takes cash, Octopus and cards.

Book Seventh Son in Wan Chai, and pre-order the suckling pig and the crispy chicken when you call. Both follow the recipes of Chui Fook-chuen, who founded Fook Lam Moon. His son Chui Wai-kwan ran that kitchen for more than five decades before he opened this room in 2013. Jennifer Che called the pig the masterpiece of her 2018 dinner: The skin was perfect - flat, crispy, and exquisitely cut into perfect square for us each to enjoy with our steamed bread, hoisin sauce, and accoutrements. Book the Lockhart Road room on +852 2892 2888. The family's second Seventh Son, in Tsim Sha Tsui, is a different room.

Forum in Causeway Bay serves lunch and dinner every day and is built on one dish. Yeung Koon-yat, the abalone king, opened it in 1977. Order the Ah Yat braised abalone with goose web. The fewer pieces of abalone to a catty, the dearer it is, so ask the price first. SCMP's 2026 guide put dinner at HK$2,000 a head. Forum is on the first floor of Sino Plaza on Gloucester Road, not at the old Lockhart Road address.

Book The Chairman on the third floor for Cantonese cooking from local farms, and bring enough people to share. The kitchen buys chickens and pigs raised in the New Territories and grows vegetables on its own farm in Sheung Shui. Come for the flower crab, steamed whole with aged Shaoxing wine and chicken oil over flat rice noodles. Alex Julie Woods ate it at the old room on Kau U Fong in 2020: The sauce was velvety and rich with a strong kick from the aged wine. Jennifer Che still thinks back to the steamed grouper head and the claypot rice, which need a group. A meal ran around HK$1,000 a head at the old room in June 2022. Book online on the days the house opens its tables. Che called a table pretty impossible in 2025.

Book Wing on the 29th floor for a tasting menu of Chinese food from a chef who spent twenty years cooking French. Vicky Cheng calls it boundaryless Chinese. The two menus cost HK$1,980 and HK$2,980 a head in February 2025. Matthias Ruhl found the wine optional that month: there were constantly refilled tea cups on the table, and the tea even changed towards the end of the meal in order to better match the food. Reservations open at midnight, up to 28 days ahead, and Wing shuts on Sunday.

Eat lunch in Central, where Mak's Noodle and Yat Lok both open every day. Order the shrimp wonton and beef brisket noodles at Mak's on Wellington Street, then queue at Yat Lok on Stanley Street for the goose with lai fun. Yat Lok takes cash or an Octopus card only.

For dinner, The Chairman, Forum and Duddell's all serve every day. The Chairman has to be booked online well ahead. Forum in Causeway Bay is easier: call 2869 8282 and order the Ah Yat abalone with goose web. At Duddell's, Tatler's Fontaine Cheng found the crispy chicken fried until the skin crackles like glass at the 2025 preview. A half cost HK$368 in September 2025.

Go to Seventh Son in Wan Chai. Danny Yip, who owns The Chairman, told the MICHELIN Guide in 2021: Seventh Son is my family's go-to place for traditional handmade dim sum.

Or go to Forum in Causeway Bay, which serves dim sum at lunch. Vicky Cheng, the chef of Wing, told Tatler in 2022 that it is his favorite for dim sum: My must-order item is Ah Yat steamed premium shrimp dumpling. Order the char siu bun with the pineapple top as well. The Top of Food Chain blog found in 2023 that the top was so shatteringly flaky while the bun was soft and sweet. SCMP's 2026 guide put lunch at HK$500 a head.

If lunch has passed, go up to the Upper Room at Duddell's. Since the September 2025 reopening it has served dim sum until late, with cocktails, above the Cantonese dining room.

Book Caprice in the Four Seasons if the room is part of the occasion. Danny Yip of The Chairman: For special occasions, I often celebrate at Caprice, for the grandeur of its interior and the exquisite food. Guillaume Galliot sets king crab on a shellfish jelly under caviar, and Matthias Ruhl found in 2025 that the caviar worked as a condiment, leaving the lovely, fresh king crab the star of the dish. Dinner ran from HK$3,128 to HK$5,888 in February 2025. Ingrid Paredes of Asia's 50 Best calls it well worth dressing up for. Caprice shuts on Monday.

Book Amber for Richard Ekkebus's French cooking without dairy, which he has served since 2019. Order the aka uni on cauliflower mousse with lobster jelly and caviar. Bloomberg's table in 2025: It's remained on the menu for years, and rightfully so. Six courses cost HK$2,058 in 2025. Skip the wagyu supplement.

Book Forum if the celebration should be Cantonese. The inspectors gave it three stars in 2020, and the Ah Yat abalone with goose web is the dish.

Get to Coa on Shin Hing Street early on a weeknight and put your name on the waitlist at the door. Joanne Tsang waited two to three hours on a weekend in 2025. Jay Khan opened the bar in 2017 for agave spirits. Order the Bitter Melon Collins, which Tsang found tastes just like a Thai green curry, in the best way possible. The bartender Jade Lau spends her own night off there: I would go to Coa for their Coconut Milk Punch. Coa shuts on Monday.

If the wait runs long, go to the Upper Room at Duddell's on Duddell Street. Its cocktails are built on the Ba Gua, the feng shui map, and cost HK$138 each in September 2025, with dim sum until late.