Pizza al taglio.

A rectangular tray of dough, baked, then cut with scissors to whatever length you point at and weighed. You pay by the gram, you eat it standing, and it is the Roman lunch. Gambero Rosso's description of the crust at Bonci Pizzarium is the spec: "with their crisp, thin base but a well-alveolated crumb". 3 The same guide records what turns over on the counter: aged pecorino with broad beans, peas, asparagus and onion one day, courgettes with mutton pastrami and agretti the next.

The counter trained the city. The Infatuation's line on Bonci is that "the owner has been key in shaping the local pizza scene here, and has trained many of today's top pizzaioli". 2 Gambero Rosso traces one of them by name: Sami El Sabawy worked with Bonci before opening A Rota out in Torpignattara, and had already been noticed for his Roman pizza at the Pianetta di Palidoro. 4 That room holds no entry here, but the line runs through it, and the tray is where the dough argument in this city started before it reached the round.

Gabriele Bonci works a high-hydration dough through fermentations of up to 72 hours, and Stefano Polacchi's account of the method names what that buys: a crust spessa ma ariosa, thick but airy, under seasonal and local toppings bought from artisans who share his thinking. 1 In September 2025 the shop took in the space next door and reopened at about 160 square metres, with an eight-metre counter that holds eleven trays at once and an open kitchen behind it. Bonci's line on what he refused to change is the whole format in one sentence: "a pizza eaten on the pavement, in line with a ticket number". 1

Pierluigi Roscioli bakes at Antico Forno Roscioli on via dei Chiavari while his brother Alessandro runs the salumeria two streets over. Dissapore calls the bakery probably the one Romans in the centre love most. 7 The Infatuation settles which of the family's doors to walk into: "out of all their spots, Antico Forno Roscioli is the standout". 5 Katie Parla disagrees about how much of that counter to take. She rates the pizza bianca and says the bakery's other pizzas are too heavy, IMO; she sells paid walking tours in Rome. 9 Daria Reina, who co-founded the Chez Dede boutique, puts that counter and Forno Campo de' Fiori together as the two classics and says both are "worth the line". 6

Bonci Pizzarium on via della Meloria, near the Vatican walls, shut on Monday, and Katie Parla's advice is to go after the lunch rush; she sells paid walking tours in Rome. 9 Forno Campo de' Fiori for a strip of pizza rossa "topped with a thin layer of tomato and glistening small pools of oil", and then the pizza bianca with mortadella that Parla calls one of her favourite bites in the centre. 2 Antico Forno Roscioli for the pizza bianca and, if there is porchetta that day, the pizza con patate with it sliced on top. None of the three has a seat, which is the point.