Gambero Rosso's whole definition of the Roman round is four words about Da Remo in Testaccio: low, and it cracks. Sarah Cicolini says a new generation of pizzaioli is rebuilding it with better flour after years of thin and crunchy made cheap, and the room she names is Jacopo Mercuro's 180g out in Centocelle. None of them opens for lunch.
The pizza tonda romana.
how it is eaten · Centocelle, Trastevere and Testaccio, at night
What it is
Low, thin, and it cracks. Gambero Rosso walked Testaccio in 2025 and gave the style its definition in two words about Da Remo on the main square: "One of the kingdoms of the Roman pizza on the plate, low and crisp." 8 The Infatuation says the same thing from the eater's side: "thin, soft and gooey inside, crispy and lightly charred outside". 6 This is a round, on a plate, one per person, and it is not the Neapolitan puff. It also is not lunch. Sarah Cicolini's note on the city's habit is that Roman pizzerias open for dinner, and that Naples is the one Italian city where a pizzeria is regularly open at midday. 1
Why it matters here
For years the round was the cheap option and tasted like it. Sarah Cicolini says what changed: "For years, Roman pizza was a thin and crunchy style often made with lower-quality ingredients, but a new generation of pizzaioli (pizzamakers) is bringing it back to life, reviving traditional techniques while using top-quality ingredients." 1 Gambero Rosso names that generation before it names any room: Sami El Sabawy, Luca Pezzetta, Jacopo Mercuro and Mirko Rizzo. 2 Two of the four cook at addresses on this list. Katie Parla holds the other position and it is worth walking in with: she groups Da Remo with Ai Marmi and Pizzeria Ostiense as rooms that "serve the same thin crust style made with pretty cheap stuff, but it's still good", and the price settles it; she sells paid walking tours in Rome. 7
How it is done
The dough ball is weighed and the room is named after it. At 180g Pizzeria Romana, Gambero Rosso's venue record reads "the base is the iconic 180-gram dough ball, indirect dough, hand-stretched". 3 At L'Elementare The Infatuation finds "that perfect balance of soft, airy dough with a crispy, cracker-like crust", which is the hard part of the style: airy and cracking at once. 6 Seu Pizza Illuminati solves it a different way. Livia Hengel writes that "the slightly chewy consistency of Neapolitan pizza and the crunchiness of the Rome-style crust is achieved by chef and wizard Pier Daniele Seu's double-leavening", and 50 Top Pizza put that room second in Italy for 2026, tied with I Masanielli in Caserta. 9 5
Who does it
Jacopo Mercuro opened in Centocelle in January 2018 and stayed out there while
people told him to move downtown. 50 Top Pizza's 2026 venue page calls his room
one of the symbolic places of the revival of the crisp Roman pizza
.
4
Mirko Rizzo runs L'Elementare in Trastevere with a long bar at the door
pouring more than twenty-five craft beers.
2
And the oldest version of this is one oven doing two jobs. Sarah Cicolini's
reason for sending people to La Tavernaccia da Bruno is exactly that: "its large
wood-fired oven, where they cook everything from meats to pizzas".
1
On the list
best version at
Da RemoThe oven is wood, the round is paper-thin with charred edges, and ten to fifteen euros covers the evening.
“On the square there is another indestructible room: Remo. One of the kingdoms of the Roman pizza on the plate, low and crisp.”
Gambero Rosso, the Testaccio guide, 22 March 2025 [8]
best version at
180g Pizzeria RomanaJacopo Mercuro gives an indirect dough a long fermentation and hand-stretches it off the 180-gram ball the room is named for.
“Jacopo Mercuro's room is by now a reference point in the city: we are in Centocelle, in a larger and more comfortable premises, but the place is heavily booked, with reservations running well ahead.”
Gambero Rosso, Dove mangiare la pizza romana, 18 June 2023 [2]
best version at
L'ElementareMirko Rizzo holds an airy dough under a crust that cracks, and pours more than twenty-five craft beers off the counter at the door.
“The Roman pizza, fragrant and light, is the star of Mirko Rizzo's room in the heart of Trastevere.”
Gambero Rosso, Dove mangiare la pizza romana, 18 June 2023 [2]
best version at
Seu Pizza IlluminatiPier Daniele Seu leavens twice to get the Neapolitan chew and the Roman crack into one base, and 50 Top Pizza put the room second in Italy for 2026.
“The slightly chewy consistency of Neapolitan pizza and the crunchiness of the Rome-style crust is achieved by chef and wizard Pier Daniele Seu's double-leavening.”
Time Out Rome, the best pizza spots in Rome, Livia Hengel, 17 August 2025 [9]
best version at
La Tavernaccia da BrunoOne wood oven takes the roasts and the rounds together, which is why Sarah Cicolini sends people here for both.
“What makes this place special is its large wood-fired oven, where they cook everything from meats to pizzas. They make an amazing pizza alla Romana (Roman pizza)—a thin, crispy-crusted pizza—as well as great pasta dishes, but I usually go for their maialino al forno, a slow-roasted suckling pig.”
Sarah Cicolini, chef-owner of SantoPalato, interviewed by Tyla Shur in The Relisher, 1 April 2025 [1]
Where to get it
Da Remo on Piazza di Santa Maria Liberatrice, evenings only, no bookings, and start with the supplì and the potato croquettes. 180g Pizzeria Romana if you will book ahead, and Cicolini's order there is the marinara, "just tomato sauce, garlic, and oregano", because she could never get enough tomato sauce in any form. 1 L'Elementare in Trastevere for the marinara doppia and a beer, taking care which of the four doors under that name you walk into. Seu Pizza Illuminati for the version that argues with the category, shut on Tuesday outside summer.
Sources & mentions
- [1]Sarah Cicolini, chef-owner of SantoPalato, in The Relisher, 1 April 2025, on what changed
“One of the best Roman Pizzerias is 180g Pizzeria Romana, a restaurant that's redefining Roman pizza. For years, Roman pizza was a thin and crunchy style often made with lower-quality ingredients, but a new generation of pizzaioli (pizzamakers) is bringing it back to life—reviving traditional techniques while using top-quality ingredients.”
“My favorite pizza to order there is the marinara. It's a simple pizza without mozzarella, just tomato sauce, garlic, and oregano. I love it because I could never get enough of flavorful tomato sauce in any form.”
- [2]Gambero Rosso, Dove mangiare la pizza romana, 18 June 2023, on who is doing this
“If the names run by Sami El Sabawy, Luca Pezzetta, Jacopo Mercuro and Mirko Rizzo now sound familiar to Gambero Rosso's readers”
- [3]Gambero Rosso, Roma e il meglio del Lazio, 180g venue page, last assessed 2025
“The base is the iconic 180-gram dough ball, indirect dough, hand-stretched.”
- [4]50 Top Pizza, venue page for 180 Grammi, 2026
“A fine confirmation, the 180 grammi pizzeria in Centocelle, by now among the symbolic places of the revival of the crisp Roman pizza.”
- [5]50 Top Pizza Italia 2026, Redazione, 20 July 2026
“Second place, tied: I Masanielli of Francesco Martucci in Caserta, and Seu Pizza Illuminati of Pier Daniele Seu and Valeria Zuppardo in Rome.”
- [6]The Infatuation, The 18 Best Pizza Spots In Rome, Annie Replogle, 12 September 2024, on L'Elementare
“Pizzeria L'Elementare sets the benchmark for Roman-style pizza. It strikes that perfect balance of soft, airy dough with a crispy, cracker-like crust.”
“Their pizza sets the neighborhood standard: thin, soft and gooey inside, crispy and lightly charred outside.”
- [7]Katie Parla, Where to Eat & Drink & Shop for Food in Rome, 6 June 2024, dissenting on the cheap end
“serve the same thin crust style made with pretty cheap stuff–but it's still good and you'll be rubbing elbows with locals if you get there on the later side”
- [8]
- [9]