Tony's Pizza Napoletana
Twelve styles of pizza, seven oven temperatures, five heat sources, and a dedicated oven for each style. Some pies are capped per day and some only run at certain hours.
Why go
The reason the menu at 1570 Stockton is that long is that the fires are different. Will Kamensky laid the production out for the Infatuation in January 2019: they serve 12 different styles of pizza, cooked at seven different temperatures, using five individual heat sources,
and each style of pizza has its own dedicated oven.
1 That constraint is why some pies are made in limited quantities per day and some are off the menu at certain hours. Kamensky scored it 8.0 and put the Neapolitan pie at the center: The margherita neapolitan pie with a soft crust and the right amount of char sets the standard that other places aim to replicate.
The Pizza World Championships Smackdown trophies are on the wall and the lines run out the door.
Order this / avoid
- Order: the margherita, early, before the day's allocation runs out.
- Order: the Eddie Muenster if you want the strange one. Kamensky:
Sweet from honey, hot from calabrese peppers, meaty from bacon, healthy from kale, and unhealthy from the fact that that kale has been deep fried beforehand. Make sure to squeeze some lemon over the top.
1 - Order: the New Yorker with a beer. Sausage, pepperoni and cheese, with ricotta to cool the heat.1
- Avoid: the pasta genovese. Kamensky, in full:
This is fine, but you're here for pizza, so order pizza.
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What locals & experts say
- The Infatuation SF (Will Kamensky, 28 January 2019), 8.0: the verdict survives the menu sprawl.
Here's what else you need to know - even with all of this going on, Tony's still makes some of the best pizza in SF.
1 - The Infatuation SF, on the Spicy Grandma:
The crust on this is thick and almost cakey, and it has cheese both melted under and over the sauce. There's no shame eating this with a knife and fork.
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Good to know
- Which door: this is 1570 Stockton. The coal-fired Slice House at 1556 Stockton is a separate room with its own page here, and Capo's on Vallejo Street is a third.
- Timing: go early if a specific style matters. The daily caps are real and the hour restrictions are too.
- Booking: walk in, and expect a line.
- What we have: the newest scored review on file is January 2019, so treat the named pies as the shape of the menu rather than tonight's list.
Verdict
should-visit — Twelve styles of pizza, seven oven temperatures and five heat sources under one roof, with a dedicated oven per style, is a kitchen built around the fact that a Neapolitan pie and a New York pie want different fires. That is a genuine argument about dough and heat rather than a menu that got long. The Infatuation scored it 8.0 in January 2019 and called the margherita the standard other rooms aim to replicate. It sits below must-visit because the newest published verdict is seven years old and the daily caps mean the thing you came for may already be gone.