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culture of place

The beer garden as the Austin taproom.

a habit of the place · Austin, from the South First warehouses out to the Hill Country

The Austin Chronicle scores twenty-five breweries out of 100 every year and publishes the scorecard, and the rooms at the top of it are yards with picnic tables and somebody else's food truck on the lot. Order by what is in the glass. Every brewery in this city already has a patio.

What it is

A brewery here is a yard with a bar at one end. St. Elmo Brewing Company runs picnic tables under shade with live music and a dog policy. 6 The Austin Beer Garden Brewing Co. pours onto a large patio and plays music most nights. 7 The Austin Chronicle ranks twenty-five of them out of 100 every October and prints the weights it used, which is more than most city lists will do. 1

Why it matters here

The drinking moved back into the neighborhoods. Eric Puga wrote at the end of 2024 that "we couldn't help but notice fewer folks drinking in the Hill Country than there used to be, preferring their friendly neighborhood beer maker down the road making clean, simple, low ABV lagers". 1 Puga ranks Jester King, out on its Hill Country farm, eleventh, and puts Meanwhile Brewing and its neighborhood lager bench first.

How it is done

Meanwhile Brewing anchors a seasonal lager bench on a Great American Beer Festival medalist pilsner, with a Vienna-style Texas Blue Corn beside it and Fore!, an Arnold Palmer style Kolsch that took silver at the 2023 World Beer Cup. 4 Puga calls The Austin Beer Garden Brewing Co.'s "some of the best lagers available in the entire country". 1 Oddwood Brewing takes the other road: "The beer runs to saisons and lagers rather than the hop-forward beers most of the city's taprooms default to." 5 So does Jester King, which by 2019 had dropped lab yeast across the whole range for a mixed culture of brewer's yeast, native yeast and native bacteria. 3

Who does it

Puga has ranked Meanwhile Brewing first two years running, with Oddwood Brewing and Hold Out Brewing second and third in 2024. 1 Meanwhile's brewing team came out of Breakside in Portland, which is why the hoppy half of its list is the older half. 4 Jeffrey Stuffings and Michael Steffing started Jester King in 2010 and now farm 165 acres with a hop field and a designated farmer, Sean Peppy Meyers. 2

On the list

  • best version at

    Meanwhile Brewing

    First in the city two years running, on a seven-acre yard with trucks parked around it.

    “a grove where folks from all walks of Austin culture can come together under the finest comprehensive beer program in all of Central Texas”

    The Austin Chronicle, Eric Puga, brewery power rankings [4]

  • best version at

    Oddwood Brewing

    Saisons and lagers where the city defaults to hops, and KG BBQ smokes on the patio.

    “Parked on that patio is KG BBQ”

    The Infatuation Austin, Nicolai McCrary, on Oddwood Brewing [5]

  • best version at

    Hold Out Brewing

    One of two rooms here that cooks its own food, and the beer is brewed to match the menu.

    “the entire folio brewed to complement their extraordinary food menu populated with some of the most difficult choices in Austin dining.”

    The Austin Chronicle, Eric Puga, brewery power rankings 2024 [1]

  • best version at

    The Austin Beer Garden Brewing Co.

    A large patio, live music most nights, and a kitchen behind the taps doing pizza.

    “some of the best lagers available in the entire country”

    The Austin Chronicle, Eric Puga, brewery power rankings 2024 [1]

  • best version at

    St. Elmo Brewing Company

    Fourth in the city, in a South Austin warehouse block it shares with a distillery, a sake company and a winery.

    “The patio is large, shaded with picnic tables, dog-friendly, and runs live music.”

    The Infatuation Austin, Nicolai McCrary, on St. Elmo Brewing Company [6]

  • best version at

    Jester King

    165 acres in the Hill Country, a hop field, a farmer on the payroll and a house culture caught off the land.

    “We can make a perfectly good IPA using American ale yeast or British ale yeast and using whatever the new trendy hops are, but it's going to be a lot like other IPAs out there.”

    The Austin Chronicle, on Jester King, quoting managing partner Ron Extract [2]

Where to get it

Walk in and drink it on the lot, because almost none of this beer leaves the yard it was brewed in. Settle the food question first. Hold Out Brewing brews the entire folio to match a menu made behind its own bar, and The Austin Beer Garden Brewing Co. runs a full kitchen doing pizzas, salads and sandwiches. 1 7 Everywhere else the answer is whichever trailer is parked on the lot that week.

The story

In 2010 Jeffrey Stuffings and Michael Steffing were told what a Texas brewery needs: an amber, a blond, an IPA, a wheat and a bock. They opened Jester King and made spontaneously fermented beer instead. 2 Ron Extract put the refusal plainly: "We can make a perfectly good IPA using American ale yeast or British ale yeast and using whatever the new trendy hops are, but it's going to be a lot like other IPAs out there." 2 Stuffings is less grand about the method. "Science isn't really our strong suit, it's really more of a sensory-based thing." 2 Fourteen years later the Chronicle put the farm eleventh and a neighborhood lager house first. 1

Sources & mentions

  1. [1]
    The Austin Chronicle, Eric Puga, Austin's Best Breweries of 2024, Power Ranked, 17 October 2024

    “our POWER RANKINGS scorecard acknowledges several factors that all extrapolate to a final 2024 lore that each brewer is free to flash about town like a fresh tattoo.”

    “we couldn't help but notice fewer folks drinking in the Hill Country than there used to be, preferring their friendly neighborhood beer maker down the road making clean, simple, low ABV lagers”

  2. [2]
    The Austin Chronicle, on Jester King's founding, quoting Jeffrey Stuffings

    “Science isn't really our strong suit, it's really more of a sensory-based thing.”

  3. [3]
    Austin Monthly, Tastemaker Jeffrey Stuffings of Jester King, quoting Stuffings

    “The main thing we have going in our favor is that we let our natural surroundings dictate what our beer smells and tastes like.”

  4. [4]
  5. [5]
    The Infatuation Austin, Nicolai McCrary, on Oddwood Brewing

    “The beer runs to saisons and lagers rather than the hop-forward beers most of the city's taprooms default to.”

  6. [6]