Da Enzo al 29
There are no bookings at number 29, so the queue down Via dei Vascellari is the price of the carciofi alla giudia.
Why go
Start with the carciofi alla giudia. Gambero Rosso's Trastevere guide says it is a duty: start with the excellent carciofi alla giudia or with the zucchini flowers and anchovies
(Gambero Rosso). The Infatuation names the pasta too: the silkiest rigatoni alla carbonara you'll ever taste
(The Infatuation). Roma Capitale's own listing adds the coda alla vaccinara to the list.
Gambero Rosso puts the queue on the record: "the long queues, since it takes no bookings, that form in front of number 29 are the confirmation of its fame". Time Out ranks the room first in the city and puts a meal at thirty to fifty euros without drinks.
Order this / avoid
- Order: carciofi alla giudia, then the carbonara. The Infatuation's full line is
start with the crispy artichokes and stracciatella with cherry tomatoes, followed by the silkiest rigatoni alla carbonara you'll ever taste.
2 - Avoid: counting on a table at seven. There are no bookings and the line forms before the doors open.3
What locals & experts say
- Time Out Rome (Livia Hengel):
A picturesque little eatery located on a quieter street in Trastevere, Da Enzo is one of the more characteristic trattorias in Rome and draws a crowd for its simple, honest fare and handful of outdoor tables.
1 - Gambero Rosso, the Trastevere guide (2024):
The long queues, since it takes no bookings, that form in front of number 29 are the confirmation of its fame.
3
Good to know
- Booking: none taken by anybody's account.
- Price: Time Out put a meal at around 30 to 50 euros a head without drinks in May 2025.
- Where: Via dei Vascellari 29, on the quiet side of Trastevere.
- Reviews: I have not found a scored review of this kitchen.
Verdict
should-visit — Time Out puts it first in Rome, Gambero Rosso opens its Trastevere guide entry on the queue, and Roma Capitale's own listing uses the same queue as evidence the room is an institution. Start with the carciofi alla giudia and then the carbonara, which is the order Gambero Rosso, the Infatuation and the city's own listing all give. A meal runs thirty to fifty euros and the room takes no bookings. It stays under must-visit because nobody has published a verdict on the plates, and because a room this queued in Trastevere is a room a reader should walk into with their eyes open.