Smoked by AI · Rome
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From Rome.
Amatriciana, gricia and cacio e pepe
productEvery trattoria card in the city, and the arguments are about proportionThe MICHELIN inspector at Trattoria Pennestri lists the Roman card in the order a menu prints it: carbonara, cacio e pepe, amatriciana and gricia. Dissapore put the amatriciana at Armando al Pantheon first in the city, Felice a Testaccio finishes its cacio e pepe at your table, and Katie Parla's advice at Cesare al Casaletto is to ignore the long primi list and take the gricia.
- best version at Trattoria Pennestri All four sauces open the menu here, which is how a Roman kitchen states what it is.
- best version at Armando al Pantheon The amatriciana is built on rigatoni here, and an Italian desk once put it first in the city.
- best version at Domenico dal 1968 The Compagnucci family has cooked this card in the Appio-Latino since 1968 and the menu is still spoken rather than printed.
- best version at Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina Alessandro Roscioli buys the cured meat for this room, which is the half of an amatriciana nobody sees.
- best version at Felice a Testaccio The cacio e pepe arrives unfinished and somebody tosses it in front of you.
- best version at Hosteria Grappolo d'Oro The cacio e pepe is on tonnarelli here, the thicker square-cut egg-free strand Roman kitchens use for it.
- best version at Cesare al Casaletto The gricia is the one to take off a long primi list, and the cacio e pepe sauce also turns up under fried gnocchi.
- best version at L'Osteria della Trippa Three of the four sauces sit on one card beside the tripe the room is named for.
- best version at Trattoria Sora Lella Sarah Cicolini's reason for sending people here is that the cacio e pepe is cheese and pepper and nothing else.
Daria Reina, on when she goesThe Infatuation, The 24 Best Restaurants In Rome, Annie Replogle, on Armando al PantheonKatie Parla, Cesare al Casaletto, on the fried gnocchiTime Out Rome, Livia Hengel and Federica Bocco, on the quarter
Gambero Rosso ate twenty-one Roman carbonare in four days and printed the pasta brand, the egg producer, the guanciale maker and the pecorino dairy behind every one of them. Nabil Hadj Hassen's at Roscioli came first, off a Benedetto Cavalieri spaghettone and Paolo Parisi eggs with most of the white thrown away. Ten to fifteen euros buys most of the field.
- best version at Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina The shop came before the kitchen, and the carbonara is what that buying does to one plate.
- best version at Trecca Manuel Treccastelli has hens fed a particular diet so the yolks come back fatter for this one dish.
- best version at Trattoria Pennestri Tommaso Pennestri buys the four parts by name and the kitchen opens on all four Roman sauces.
- best version at Armando al Pantheon The pepper here is cubeb, toasted and coarsely crumbled, which is nobody else's move on this list.
- best version at Hosteria Grappolo d'Oro Antonello Magliari sears the guanciale in squares and finishes with yolk alone.
- best version at SantoPalato The spaghetti are left al chiodo and the egg is brought together over a bain-marie.
- best version at Cesare al Casaletto Leonardo Vignoli works to two yolks and one whole egg per two portions, and the guide had a reservation about the result.
- best version at Pipero Roma The mezze maniche are made for this kitchen by the Graziano pasta works, and the plate is priced accordingly.
- best version at Romanè The pasta comes at a full 130 grams, which changes what a plate of carbonara is for.
- best version at Da Enzo al 29 The Trastevere queue orders carciofi alla giudia and then this.
Gambero Rosso, on the carbonara at TreccaMICHELIN Guide, The Best Trattorias in Rome, on RoscioliKatie Parla, Where to Eat & Drink & Shop for Food in Rome, 6 June 2024Trattoria Sora Lella (venue site), on what it will not cook
A supplì is rice and ragù packed round a core of mozzarella, crumbed and fried, and Daria Reina queues for one at Forno Campo de' Fiori the way other people queue for coffee. Gambero Rosso makes the case for the thing by pointing at who sells it: Arcangelo Dandini, who cooks at L'Arcangelo, opened a second room that sells almost nothing else. The rest of the fried course is cod fillets, baby squid and stuffed zucchini flowers in paper cones, and at Cesare al Casaletto Katie Parla rates a sphere of pulled braised veal above all of them.
- best version at Supplizio A chef with his own restaurant opened a second room given over to one fried thing, which is the argument for taking it seriously.
- best version at Forno Campo de' Fiori Daria Reina's own quick bite is a supplì or a slice off this counter, and she says the line is worth it.
- best version at Antico Forno Roscioli The other half of Reina's sentence, and the supplì comes off the same counter as the pizza bianca.
- best version at L'Elementare The Infatuation rates the supplì here against every other sit-down pizzeria in the city, and the one to take is filled with fior di latte and 'nduja.
- best version at 180g Pizzeria Romana Sarah Cicolini orders the marinara and then the supplì, and it is the second thing she names in the whole interview.
- best version at Da Remo The rice supplì and the potato croquettes come before the pizza here, which is the Testaccio order of service.
- best version at Cesare al Casaletto Katie Parla calls these some of the lightest fried foods she has eaten, and the best of them is a sphere of pulled braised veal.
- best version at Domenico dal 1968 Dissapore calls the fritto here exuberant and files it with the broccoli and skate soup as the room's two real specialities.
- best version at Da Enzo al 29 Gambero Rosso says starting with the zucchini flowers and anchovies here is a duty rather than a choice.
- best version at Seu Pizza Illuminati Gambero Rosso calls the fritti here compulsory before the pizza arrives.
- best version at Nonna Betta The Ghetto's fried course is pezzetti fritti and concia, and Katie Parla says stick to those.
Katie Parla, Where to Eat & Drink & Shop for Food in Rome, 6 June 2024, on SupplizioKatie Parla, Cesare al Casaletto, on the best of the fried things thereGambero Rosso, Dove mangiare i supplì a Roma, 1 October 2023, on Stefano CallegariThe Infatuation, The 18 Best Pizza Spots In Rome, on the supplì at L'Elementare
Stefano Callegari was running a slice shop in Testaccio called 00100 when he started putting trattoria sauces inside a triangular pocket of slowly leavened pizza dough. That was 2009, the shape now has four doors in Rome, and Daria Reina orders trapizzini in when she hosts a dinner party. Callegari's own trattoria, Romanè, is behind the Vatican and serves no pizza pockets at all.
- best version at Trapizzino This is the Testaccio counter the shape was invented behind, and it traded as 00100 first.
- best version at Romanè Callegari's own trattoria, and the menu skips the pocket entirely for carbonara and pollo alla cacciatora.
Eater, The 38 Best Restaurants in Rome, Katie Parla, updated 26 March 2026Gambero Rosso, Dove mangiare i supplì a Roma, 1 October 2023, on what Callegari changedDaria Reina, co-founder of Chez Dede, interviewed in The Relisher, 2 October 2024Katie Parla, Where to Eat & Drink & Shop for Food in Rome, 6 June 2024, on the filling